Wandering kits: Remove front of box, or add height to it?

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MidwestMatthew

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Our kits are 10 days old. So far they've all stayed in the nesting box - until this morning, when I went out and found two outside of it. One was doing fine; the other was squashed between the box and the edge of the cage, and unfortunately dead as a doornail. I took care of that one, and when I came back, another one was out.

I've added another inch and a half to the height of the front of the nest box to keep them in for now, but the doe doesn't seem to like it. Would it be better to just remove the front altogether, so they can get back in if they get out?

The front started out 3" tall. Now it's 4 1/2". The kits are New Zealands and are getting noticeably bigger every day.
 
When I had rabbits in cages with traditional nest boxes, I solved the problem by putting a brick against the low end of the nest box (outside the box.) It gave the kits a step up when they wanted to return to the nest. Once I started doing that, I never had another stranded kit.
 
We tried the step suggestion but our kits didn't seem to use it (maybe not as smart as Maggie's?) So we made the front of the nest boxes so that the top half can be removed as soon as eyes are open and kits are starting to get out. We also heard the suggestion here on RT from someone to secure the nest box so it can't be shoved around to prevent the squashed kit episodes. That has worked well for us.
 
Your solution is an excellent one, Rainey, and if the brick hadn't worked for us, we probably would have tried something similar. I tend to try low-tech solutions first, and maybe we were just lucky with the kits we had. ;)
 
Once the litters start leaving the nest I usually take out the box or turn it on its side if its chilly
 
at 10 days old, just flip the box on its side and they will be just fine. :) If the doe is a dimwit and wants to drag the box around or flip it back, just take the nestbox material out, plunk it in a corner and the kits will rest there.
 
Just wanted to add that it depends on the temperature you're expecting. We breed spring and fall when the overnights can go quite low here. So having the nestbox to keep the kits together helps--even once they're able to climb out. We've noticed that they tend to leave the nest box earlier when it's warmer and sometimes need a nudge to leave when it's cold (like this spring when the cold persisted through April and into May) So what you do now--if it's hot where you are--will be different from what you'll need to do if you have litters kindled when it's colder.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, some good ideas to think on.

One problem is our kits' eyes aren't open yet (are they a bit late?) So I'm not sure how well they'll be able to get back to the nest box until they can see where to go (can they sense that sort of thing pretty well?) I had thought about just plopping the nest materials in a corner of the cage like ladysown suggested, but again, I'm just concerned that they can't see what they're doing yet.

The box is secured somewhat so it can't move more than an inch or so. But the kit that died managed to wedge itself in between the box and the cage so tightly that it just couldn't get back out. And it was down in the low 50's that night, so all alone like that, of course she didn't make it.

It's getting into the 90's all this week so I'm actually getting concerned about the kits getting too hot. I may bring them inside for a while each afternoon. They certainly don't need to be in the nest to stay warm.

So I guess it just comes down to whether or not it's OK to remove (or tip) the box even if their eyes aren't open yet. What do you think?
 
I prefer the kits to stay in the box until they can see where they're going. Next best thing would be to have them on the level of the cage floor, so they can blunder around until they find the nest. I've sometimes used a cut down cardboard carton - just a tray really, like a soft drink flat - to contain their bedding after removing the nest box.
 
ladysown":1x4ocl5m said:
at 10 days old, just flip the box on its side and they will be just fine. :) If the doe is a dimwit and wants to drag the box around or flip it back, just take the nestbox material out, plunk it in a corner and the kits will rest there.
I'm dealing with the same thing now, and this is perfect! Thanks! I was getting tired of putting batches of two or three back in every couple of hours. :bunnyhop:
 
My nest boxes in the colony have a 5" front on them so it's almost impossible for the kits to get out in the first couple of weeks. After they have fur on them I pull the nesting material away from the front of the box so there is an actual 5" wall for them to try to get over. I also pile straw up against the outside of the nest box so if any get out they can easily scramble back in. I have found three to four week old kits all over the colony, sometimes lying in a pile of older rabbits and I worry that they won't find their way back to the nest to get nursed but they always seem to grow fine so I guess they do. Mine are also New Zealands.

My nest boxes stay in the colony all the time because I never know when a litter will appear. I clean them out after the litter seems to spend more time outside the box than in.
 

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