To hot?

At what point does it become to hot?

Will the bucks slowly become heat sterile?

As long as the rabbit has proper cooling, it should be fine. When the rabbit is sweating around their nose, has rapid breathing, and just in general is hot, is to hot. Make sure they stay cool with ice bottles, cool fans, wet tiles and towels, ect.

golden rabbitry":2mro11uh said:

As long as the rabbit has proper cooling, it should be fine. When the rabbit is sweating around their nose, has rapid breathing, and just in general is hot, is to hot. Make sure they stay cool with ice bottles, cool fans, wet tiles and towels, ect.

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Thanks golden! I guess I should have been a little more specific. None of them look hot, or in heat distress, but I was just wondering on behalf of the male, if and around what temp they become sterile?

It has been in the 80s and they have plenty of shade and a nice breeze going on.

I've always heard above about 85 F the bucks start becoming sterile but I can't find a source to back that up, so I wouldn't put too much faith in it. Either way, it also varies with the rabbit itself - younger bucks tend to have less problems with heat sterility and some lines handle it better as well

SableSteel":216297r7 said:

I've always heard above about 85 F the bucks start becoming sterile but I can't find a source to back that up, so I wouldn't put too much faith in it. Either way, it also varies with the rabbit itself - younger bucks tend to have less problems with heat sterility and some lines handle it better as well

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Well, I guess I will just let them practice, and hope in 30 or so days, that I have kits! :lol:

The problem with heat stress is.. it is very specific not only to the individual rabbit, but also the genetics of the rabbit "line"... a general rule is 90 degrees F for buck sterility. - I have seen individual rabbits get heat stress at 85 when pregnant and close to the due date.
You will have to watch your rabbits and look for the signs that show they are becoming uncomfortable. If the rabbits get too hot it takes a lot out of them, some rabbits are never as healthy as they were, after getting too hot. I have always kept a few 2 liter plastic bottles of water frozen in the freezer for "emergencies". I hold it against their stomach if they are "in trouble", or just let them lay against it if they are looking a little uncomfortable. In rare cases I have filled a sink with 80 degree water and submerged them in it. [except their face] -- if they survive, .. I use a blow dryer on "warm" [not hot] to dry them again. I have used ice cubes to rub against their ears if they look like they are "about to get in trouble"... there are some pictures of heat stress here.. but also readily found on "the net" -- I suggest you formulate a plan ,to keep this from ever needing to be treated. I have used a closed building with swamp coolers when "out west" . and the same with air conditioners when in the humid "East".
I have used big "circulation fans" , to keep air moving fast, over the cages.....

In Florida...I had wire cages, inside an open front shed , under big trees in 100% shade, and recycled carpet over the entire shed [including most of the open front], - with a sprinkler on top ,that came on at 80 degrees to wet the carpet. I had no heat losses ,..except a time or two when the power was out, and i didn't know because I was away working.

I know this is a bit off topic. fftopic: But …

I was wondering how much of this could be applied to guinea pigs living in an outdoor enclosure? Last summer David blamed a slower herd production on the heat. As far as I know, he did not observe the herd for long periods of time, he just noticed the number of sub-adults when David went to cull for food. When I tend the herd (or just hang-out with them), what should I be on the lookout for as far as signs of heat distress, or heat sterility.

I am going to be the odd one out here (like usual) and pass on the advice I got from the lady who bred my opal buck, Jack. She moved up here from south Florida, and said her line does not get heat stress anymore, because she culled any juvenile or adult who showed heat stress. She also said she doesn't use fans or ice bottles, and that Jack shouldn't go heat sterile until 90-92F, because she culled hard in the beginning.

IIRC, you mentioned on another thread you have rabbits bought at the livestock auction, so likely not pedigreed or show stock ... which is mostly what I have here also. I do the living shade thing, but not fans or ice bottles. I've also bought all my stock locally, never driving more than 1.5 hours, and that was to get Jack. I have only one rabbit who pants audibly in the hot-heat of August, and she is likely my oldest, my self-black mini, Gracie. It's also difficult to keep her in shape, as she puts on weight in the blink of an eye.

Just a (very) different opinion on the subject, and worth every penny you've paid for it. LOL