root crops as part of no pellet diet

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Rainey

Rainey

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Last winter we fed potatoes (cooked) and carrots and parsnips (raw) to our rabbits along with hay, wheat fodder and oats. This year we also grew and fed turnips--greens and roots--but didn't grow enough to store for winter. Do have the 3 we fed last year stored again.

I'm looking at what to add to the garden for rabbits next year. Have heard sugar beets and mangel beets recommended but I've only ever grown garden beets and don't understand how the other 2 are different, whether the tops can be fed as well as the roots. Also the old book I've found so helpful (from WWII, British) seems very specific about what roots can be fed at what times of year. Does anyone here have experience to know whether or why that is important?
 
We are just starting out going pellet free so are very interested in responses to this too!

We grew sugar beets with the intention of feeding them primarily during the winter. They are commonly used as livestock feed....
The rabbits do love the roots, but don't really eat the tops...in my experience.
 
Root vegetables tend to all be a bit high in sugar and individually usually have their own vitamin (vit A in carrots), mineral, or potential toxin (such as green potato peelings) they are high in. They are not usually a good idea as a large portion of the diet but for supplement most any should be fine. Another thing that stores well through part of winter is squashes and they would add a lot of variety to a diet with all root vegetables as the fresh food. Unfortunately they take a lot of garden space. This site has some vegetables and storage info (garlic and onion can be used for mammals) http://redfirefarm.com/newspages/?p=442
 
akane":2zfez1ba said:
Root vegetables tend to all be a bit high in sugar and individually usually have their own vitamin (vit A in carrots), mineral, or potential toxin (such as green potato peelings) they are high in. They are not usually a good idea as a large portion of the diet but for supplement most any should be fine. Another thing that stores well through part of winter is squashes and they would add a lot of variety to a diet with all root vegetables as the fresh food. Unfortunately they take a lot of garden space. This site has some vegetables and storage info (garlic and onion can be used for mammals) http://redfirefarm.com/newspages/?p=442
Click to expand...
Akane, did you mean to say that garlic and onion cannot be used for mammals?

- - -

Rainey, natural feeding in winter is always a bit more of a challenge. I always fed some root crops such as carrots and beets, just not huge amounts because of the sugar. I also fed cabbage, phasing it in very slowly while there were still other fresh foods available. My rabbits had free choice hay (about 75% alfalfa, 25% grass) and small amounts of whole grain, usually wheat but sometimes barley. They had a trace mineral salt block too. When plentiful, I gave them pumpkin and squash and they had things like (safe) salad vegetable trimmings, leftover cooked potato, squash and pumpkin pulp and seeds from ones we ate. My rabbits preferred their pumpkin and squash cooked and sometimes would not eat it raw.

Is your British wartime book the one for the Young Farmers' Clubs? I have that one and it is so helpful. I asked an old timer on another forum about why not to feed mangels before Christmas and never the tops of mangels. He wasn't sure, but thought it might have to do with the sugar conversion to starch when the mangels are stored for a while. And it could be . . . I notice carrots that have been stored taste less sweet than straight out of the garden. The reasons for these things may have been lost, but I tend to follow them anyway.

You may find this study about feeding weeds and potatoes interesting. It is also Wartime information.
http://journals.cambridge.org/download. ... d41529542f
 
I once had a rabbit who one day chewed on garlic I was storing outside. I was surprised that he would eat it but it didn't seem to affect him except for his breath.

I've never tried winter squash but none would even try zucchini.
 
The wartime book is probably Keeping Poultry And Rabbits On Scraps
ir



It was recommended to me by several on this board and I purchased it. It is a great resource.
 
Somehow that word stopped short... Garlic and onion are silent killers. They destroy red blood cells and the anemia will go unnoticed until something happens to stress the system in the wrong way. It also usually doesn't kill with one meal but builds over time.

I did not find that my rabbits needed winter vegetation to survive and reproduce. If you have hay, grain, and a good mineral block I didn't see signs of a deficiency in anything during the late Nov- early March when nothing to hardly nothing grows. Rabbits live in places where nothing grows in winter. I see the cottontails here eating on bushes and young trees for pretty much their whole winter diet.
 
Those are good points about wild buns not eating much in the way of greens during winter.

My mind wanders to what they DO eat during the worst months.
Inner bark and winter buds on trees and shrubs. Dried vegetation, which is basically just natural hay.
Seeds left on plant stalks.

Maybe some wild root veggies if they can find a patch of ground unfrozen enough to dig up.
 
I have been thinking about what the wild rabbits eat in winter too....they girdle the apple trees :evil: , eat bark off any low branches or fallen limbs, dried grass, etc...as was mentioned above. Actually, I think the rats are more likely to be eating the root crops than the rabbits. I guess I'll be going easy on the root crops, but squash is something I think I'll start adding to their diet. And lots of tree branches. Which will be fun to collect in the dead of winter. :x
 
Rainey":2a5gddna said:
Last winter we fed potatoes (cooked) and carrots and parsnips (raw) to our rabbits along with hay, wheat fodder and oats. This year we also grew and fed turnips--greens and roots--but didn't grow enough to store for winter. Do have the 3 we fed last year stored again.

I'm looking at what to add to the garden for rabbits next year. Have heard sugar beets and mangel beets recommended but I've only ever grown garden beets and don't understand how the other 2 are different, whether the tops can be fed as well as the roots. Also the old book I've found so helpful (from WWII, British) seems very specific about what roots can be fed at what times of year. Does anyone here have experience to know whether or why that is important?
Click to expand...

JMHO... The reason for the time frame is -- the sugars, and other things, like nitrates, - mellow, and change in storage-- , Sugar Beets and Mangles , can be too "hot" if fed directly from the garden, [once they have been stored for a few months, they have a different nutrient profile]. the biggest problem I have noticed when feeding "fresh " sugar beet is it gives rabbits diarrhea, - and that is a bad thing. -another crop that is good for rabbits is Jerusalem artichoke, it also mutates sugar/ starch nutrient profiles in storage [or just left in the ground for a few weeks , after the top dies in the fall].
If anyone reading this is thinking about feeding root crops, I would add a note of caution for those new to this-- long stem fiber is critical to the digestive health of your rabbit, root crops are very low in fiber, and have almost no "long stem" fiber, -- a good grass hay, or even corn stalks will remedy this, - but-- the addition of long stem fiber is a must if you feed root crops. JMHO...
 
alforddm":288nl47n said:
The wartime book is probably Keeping Poultry And Rabbits On Scraps
ir



It was recommended to me by several on this board and I purchased it. It is a great resource.
Click to expand...

yes, that's the book--I just couldn't think of the title when I posted and was too lazy to go get it off my shelf. The diet in this book includes quite a few roots in winter and Michael4gardens on RT has used them for years and I learned a lot from him last winter. My original post was an attempt to get answers to some root questions I still had. I knew that many people would never feed them or would feed them only in tiny amounts as treats.

We also use garlic sometimes to treat our goats and we gather wild mushrooms (only ones easily identified and not readily confused) and no doubt do many other things that some folks see as just plain wrong. The thing is that anything one could possibly feed to rabbits (or other livestock or to people) is considered harmful by someone. :(

When I started to post this, I see that Michael has posted. He's been at this lots longer than me and I would recommend reading his posts in this forum to anyone looking to grow more of their own feed.
 
I personally think growing and feeding Sugar beet as rabbit feed is a better choice then growing and feeding potatoes, because , - the sugar beet has more energy, fiber, protein, and trace nutrients. Potatoes need to be cooked, and sugar beet does not, caloric yield / sq ft [in the garden] is better with sugar beet, then potato [usually]. Sugar beet is a more "complete" feed then potato, and has a much longer "storage life"

I would also like to promote Jerusalem artichoke as rabbit feed, the tops are a high nutrient feed, that can be fed from late spring until hard frost, and can be dried and fed through the winter also -and the root can be fed raw as soon as they are formed, with no adverse reaction from the rabbits, [the gradual addition of any introduced feed is critical] Feeding the J. artichoke, until after Christmas , and then adding the sugar beet [that can then be fed through the entire next year, as they store very well, in good storage conditions ] works very well as a feeding program. [J. artichoke is not mentioned in the above referenced book]
again, -- JMHO,
 
michaels4gardens":2gz6d7fl said:
I personally think growing and feeding Sugar beet as rabbit feed is a better choice then growing and feeding potatoes, because , - the sugar beet has more energy, fiber, protein, and trace nutrients. Potatoes need to be cooked, and sugar beet does not, caloric yield / sq ft [in the garden] is better with sugar beet, then potato [usually]. Sugar beet is a more "complete" feed then potato, and has a much longer "storage life"

I would also like to promote Jerusalem artichoke as rabbit feed, the tops are a high nutrient feed, that can be fed from late spring until hard frost, and can be dried and fed through the winter also -and the root can be fed raw as soon as they are formed, with no adverse reaction from the rabbits, [the gradual addition of any introduced feed is critical] Feeding the J. artichoke, until after Christmas , and then adding the sugar beet [that can then be fed through the entire next year, as they store very well, in good storage conditions ] works very well as a feeding program. [J. artichoke is not mentioned in the above referenced book]
again, -- JMHO,
Click to expand...

Thank you. I want to grow some new root crops for our rabbits next season and think I'll try sugar beets. So far we've just grown more of the root crops we already grow for ourselves to have some for the rabbits. We have J. artichokes but have only fed the tops--hoping to have a big enough plot of them so we can take roots without shrinking the plot. Seems silly because I know folks try and try to get them out of their yards.
We fed the carrot and parsnip tops just before the freeze that would have killed them this fall. Do you feed sugarbeet tops during the growing season? And how long do you store the roots before you feel they are safe to feed? (I think storage is more challenging here because we have more rain/wetter ground and higher humidity.) But I really want to figure this out.
 
I feed the beet tops toward the end of the season after beet development is about complete for the year, [right before, or during the time I harvest the beets] - but I always make sure they are fed with plenty of other greens so the rabbits have a choice.
Storage of sugar beet works well in a " clamp" type storage, as well as under damp sand or sawdust, in areas where pits are impractical because of moisture. - as far as storage time for sugar beet, -- I like to give them 60 days before I start to introduce them into feed rations.

__________ Sun Nov 08, 2015 6:15 am __________

Just a note for those other "terminally curious " folks out there, ..
It was once commonly believed , in the days when rabbits were raised on greens, root crops, and hay, that rabbits needed no water. so , -no water was given to rabbits, it was only when dry feeds, and grains were introduced as rabbit feed, people realized that rabbits did need water. Rabbits were so efficient at retaining their water, that the greens, and root crops supplied enough water for them to live and reproduce. I personally find that amazing...

I am trying to buy a single row potato digger, to harvest my root crops, -- we will see if I lose my money-- or not...
http://ycyl2013.en.made-in-china.com/pr ... ester.html
 
michaels4gardens":178me04x said:
I feed the beet tops toward the end of the season after beet development is about complete for the year, [right before, or during the time I harvest the beets] - but I always make sure they are fed with plenty of other greens so the rabbits have a choice.
Storage of sugar beet works well in a " clamp" type storage, as well as under damp sand or sawdust, in areas where pits are impractical because of moisture. - as far as storage time for sugar beet, -- I like to give them 60 days before I start to introduce them into feed rations.
I'm embarrassed to admit this, but I don't know what is meant by clamp type storage :oops: I seem to be always asking you follow up questions and much appreciate your patience.

__________ Sun Nov 08, 2015 6:15 am __________

Just a note for those other "terminally curious " folks out there, ..
It was once commonly believed , in the days when rabbits were raised on greens, root crops, and hay, that rabbits needed no water. so , -no water was given to rabbits, it was only when dry feeds, and grains were introduced as rabbit feed, people realized that rabbits did need water. Rabbits were so efficient at retaining their water, that the greens, and root crops supplied enough water for them to live and reproduce. I personally find that amazing...
We've noticed how little water our rabbits go through when it isn't hot but they are still getting quite a bit of fresh forage and roots. Worried some at first and then realized they were getting what they needed from their food.

I am trying to buy a single row potato digger, to harvest my root crops, -- we will see if I lose my money-- or not...
http://ycyl2013.en.made-in-china.com/pr ... ester.html
Click to expand...
 
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A clamp is a compact heap, mound or pile of materials.[1] A storage clamp is used in the agricultural industry for temporary storage of root crops such as potato, turnip, rutabaga, mangelwurzel, sugar beet etc.

A clamp is formed by excavating a shallow rectangular depression in a field to make a base for the clamp. Root crops are then stacked onto the base up to a height of about 2 metres. When the clamp is full, the earth scraped from the field to make the base is then used to cover the root crops to a depth of several inches. Straw or old hay may be used to protect the upper surface from rain erosion.

A well-made clamp will keep the vegetables cool and dry for many months. Most clamps are relatively long and narrow, allowing the crops to be progressively removed from one end without disturbing the remaining vegetables. The use of a clamp allows a farmer to feed vegetables into market over many months.
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traditionally... in wet areas, a higher area of ground is preferred,[ for drainage] and if need be, skip the depression mentioned above.., -so rainfall and snow melt will drain away from the pile,- roots are then stacked up as tall as possible and in a long [rather than round] pile, and then covered with a layer of straw [or corn stalks]for insulation value, then dirt is heaped over top of the pile, then if erosion is foreseen as a problem, straw or other waste can be stacked on top of the dirt, - the amount of coverage is dependent on the climate you live in IE: more coverage in colder areas to prevent frost damage to crops, -- the pile is fed starting at one end, [let the dirt fall back over un-dug roots] more dirt may have to be scooped up from the bottom of the pile to add cover over the area you have been working on. The longer you want to store the roots [IE: for summer feeding], the more cover you need to maintain stable [cool] temperatures.

--roots can also be stored in damp sand, or damp sawdust, or wood shavings,
--the easiest and most user friendly method I have used is, to make two walls of railroad ties, about 6 to 8 feet apart and 4 feet high, [with a few ties buried on the outside like fence posts, to hold the sides in place]-and [for me] about 20 feet long, pile the root crops in the area between the ties, adding about a foot of wood shavings on the sides [between the roots and the railroad ties] and on top, I then put pieces of metal roofing over the top cross ways to cover the ties and pile, I put old tires on the tin to keep wind from blowing the tin away, [fill with damp shavings to the top so snow-load does not cave the tin roofing in, or put boards under the tin roofing]-- as I used the root crops the shavings would fall down and cover the rest of the pile, -- it might sound complicated, but it was the least work of any plan I have used, -- and the same "pit" could be used each year , for many years... [in windy areas you may have to put a tarp over the ends of the pile...]
 
Thanks for the explanations, Michael. I'm trying to picture how either of those methods would work for us.We're in a similar zone--borderline 4/5. Does the method you find easiest keep the stored roots from freezing in winter and from rotting in summer? How hot does it get where you are? And when do you have your earliest and latest frosts? The hardest part about natural feeding is that whatever I learn from all of you here on RT then I have to figure out how to adapt it for my location which I wouldn't have to do with pellets. But that is what is satisfying too--whether feeding us or the animals--figuring out how to use what we have and how to adapt to the conditions right here. Thanks again for your patience with my questions.
 
Rainey":38jpu803 said:
Thanks for the explanations, Michael. I'm trying to picture how either of those methods would work for us.We're in a similar zone--borderline 4/5. Does the method you find easiest keep the stored roots from freezing in winter and from rotting in summer? How hot does it get where you are? And when do you have your earliest and latest frosts? The hardest part about natural feeding is that whatever I learn from all of you here on RT then I have to figure out how to adapt it for my location which I wouldn't have to do with pellets. But that is what is satisfying too--whether feeding us or the animals--figuring out how to use what we have and how to adapt to the conditions right here. Thanks again for your patience with my questions.
Click to expand...

The easiest method is the best, the shavings are cleaner, better insulation, and lighter to move, - they keep the roots more stable in the winter, and summer.
I have used this method in Montana, and Utah, with lows to -20 with no problems. Summer temps are not usually much over 90, with cool nights here. our frost free dates are usually May 15 to October 15-- there have been years when high temps have caused early softening and some sprouting and spoiling in the sugar beets, -- but they were always good long enough to have carrots ready to switch to.
 
This is a very timely thread as I had just started making a seed order with fodder beets in it! :lol:

Being way down South in Florida I so get the "Learn something new and then adapt it!" thing, I dont even know if fodder beets will grow for me but I really want to try them.

When one feeds something like beets to rabbits, do they have to be shredded or chunked or what?
 

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