Providing A Care Guide/Welcome Package with New Pet Rabbit

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Bad Habit

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This is going to be long. Thank you to anyone who can read this and provide feedback. Do not hesitate to let me know anything that may have been left out. It looks to be about 2 pages when printed, debating personalizing it with the colour/gender of the rabbit purchased. Also, point out any spelling mistakes, as I am horrid at spelling, lol!

-------------------------------------------

Congratulations on your new addition!! You are now the proud owner of a lionhead rabbit bred by Bad Habit Rabbits, and thank you for choosing to add a Bad Habit Rabbit to your household!

The mother of your new rabbit is Bad Habit's Lily Potter, a japanese harlequin 3/4ths Lionhead, 1/4th Netherlands Dwarf doe. Lily weighs in at 3.5lbs, and has very little mane. She carries the single mane gene. Her mother was Patches, a japanese harlequin 1/2 Lionhead, 1/2 Netherlands Dwarf. Her father was Brownie, an orange Lionhead.

The father of your new rabbit is Bad Habit's Dobby, a blue vienna lionhead buck. Dobby weighs in at 3.7lbs, and carries the double mane genes. He is very fluffy and has white markings on his ears, face, neck and feet. His mother was Sasha, a magpie harlequin lionhead, and his father was Blue, a blue vienna lionhead.

Since birth, your rabbit has been handled daily, to allow it to become used to human contact. Nothing but the most gentle handling was given to it, and it should be well on the way to a solid foundation with humans. Continue to offer your rabbit firm but gentle handling, and always end all contact on a positive note. Do not be alarmed if your rabbit struggles or is wary of you at first - they don't know you yet! Remember that your rabbit will feel most comfortable with all 4 feet supported, and never ever pick it up by the ears! You also should never scruff your rabbit as you might a cat or dog - they do not have the extra skin, and it is very painful. Instead, use one hand under the rabbit's belly to pick it up initially, and as quickly as possible, cradle it in your arms, allowing your forearm to act as a general perch for your rabbit's feet. Alternately, you can place your rabbit in your lap, or beside you.

Since weaning, your rabbit has had a litter box available to it. I use pine pellets for a wood stove, or pine pellet horse bedding as a litter medium, as it is a cheaper alternative to commercial litters. I provide a 4 inch tall cat litter box(usually available at most dollar stores) with about an inch of pine pellets on the bottom, and a nice pile of hay to encourage the rabbit to sit in the litter box. Remember that your rabbit is young, and might not be consistant about using the litter box. As your rabbit ages, it will start using the box more and more, as rabbits are very clean animals by nature, and like to use the same area to potty all the time. If you are having trouble getting your rabbit to use the litter box, check and make sure that the box is in the rabbit's preferred potty corner and adjust as needed. Your rabbit will also refrain from using the box if you leave it too long without cleaning.

For food, your rabbit has been receiving Health Diet Rabbit food, as well as unlimited mixed grass/alfalfa hay. I also feed various greens to the babies - grass and dandelions, carrot tops, apple tree branches, chickweed, raspberry cane and rose cane are all things your bunny is currently accustomed to. They have received a very limited quantity of romaine and leaf lettuce, carrots, cucumber and tomato. Please note, though, that these vegetables have been fed primarily as a treat, never a large quantity and not very often. Rabbits are herbivores rather than vegetarians, and while they enjoy the occasional vegetable/fruit treat, their diet should primarily consist of vegetation that is naturally occuring in the wild. It can be hard, but it is best to resist the temptation to provide your rabbit with large quantites of fresh food right away. This can cause digestive issues, and may eventually even lead to your rabbit's death! If in doubt, do not feed vegetation, and stick to plenty of quality hay, kibbles and of course plenty of water!

Your rabbit was raised in a home with a small dog who loves his rabbits very much. As such, it may not be instinctively wary of dogs, and this is something you should be aware of. Never ever leave your rabbit loose and unattended with any animal, no matter how much you trust both animals, and never leave your rabbit in an unsecure cage where another animal member of your family might be able to get at it. A rabbit can be quickly injured or even killed by a larger animal with the best intentions. Since your rabbit is small, and will stay small, and will enjoy running, it is best to keep it confined to a room for out of cage play time with no other animals around. You know your other pets better than anyone else, so use your best judgement when it comes to introducing your rabbit to other pets.

Please also be aware that rabbits can be very territorial. It is ill advised to try and "bond" your rabbit with another rabbit, as it can cause injury to either rabbit, and can lead to heartbreak for you. It is very difficult to bond rabbits, and can take years. Many websites will insist that your rabbit needs a friend, and while this is true, the best friend for your rabbit is going to be you! Once a rabbit becomes sexually mature(around 4mths of age), it may fight with rabbits it has gotten along with previously. You are more than welcome to attempt to bond your rabbits, however I thoroughly encourage researching and finding out as much as you can about the practice before undertaking the task.

Your rabbit comes with a limited 1 week health guarantee. I will honour this guarantee, provided that you have followed the guidelines listed here. Injury from another rabbit or careless handling/improper caging will not fall under this guarantee. I will not pay vet bills should your rabbit or any other rabbits in your home fall ill during this time. I encourage a zero air exchange quarantine for all new rabbits, be it a rabbit from Bad Habit Rabbits, or another rabbit. Should your new rabbit fall ill through no fault of your own, or pass away during the 1 week guarantee, I will exchange for another rabbit, provide full refund, or offer you first selection on the next litter. I will, however, require that the rabbit be returned if ill, or that the body is brought for my inspection.

Should you become unable or unwilling to care for your rabbit, Bad Habit Rabbits requests first right of refusal for all sales, and will happily take any unwanted rabbit in for rehoming. Never hesitate to contact if you are unable to care for your rabbit, all I want is to see all rabbits produced here find happy, loving homes. Though I may not buy back a rabbit, I will always take in unwanted rabbits, and may offer to purchase cages/supplies.

Any further questions or concerns regarding your rabbit, from questions about care and health to questions about economical rabbit husbandry, can be emailed to . You are also welcome to contact me through facebook - the same email address - or via phone/text. My home phone is [number], my cell phone is [number]. I do prefer that you reserve phone calls for emergency situations only, though.

As always, enjoy your new pet! I am here to support you through the process of getting to know your pets and will help whenever I can. I thoroughly encourage and welcome contact regarding your rabbit, and am always more than happy to see any photos you wish to share.

Again, thank you for choosing a Bad Habit Rabbit!

[name]
 
a zero air exchange quarantine for all new rabbits --- most people, particularly pet people will have ZERO idea as to what that means. I had to stop and think about it myself.

you should spell out more carefully what your health guarantee covers. i found it somewhat ambiguous.
 
Your rabbit comes with a limited 1 week health guarantee. Should your new rabbit fall ill or pass away through no fault of your own during the 1 week guarantee, I will exchange for another rabbit(if available), provide full refund, or offer you first selection on the next litter. I will, however, require that the rabbit be returned if ill, or that the body is brought for my inspection. Injury from another rabbit or careless handling/improper caging will not fall under this guarantee. Please note as well that I encourage a quarantine period for all new rabbits, to prevent the passage of disease. As well, I encourage all owners, new and experienced, to fully research before bringing a new rabbit into their home, especially if they already have a rabbit in their household.

-------

Would that be better? I don't want to confuse anyone, but I also don't want to be stuck replacing a kit that someone dropped, or that was improperly fed and bloated and died. I also don't want to be accused of a kit from me being the cause of an older rabbit getting sick.
 
Very nicely done. The only thing I would add is why you quarantine, not just for possible illness, but also stress. Let them know that the first week with limited interaction, just cleaning, feeding, watering, could help your bunny learn his surroundings and help him settle in. Stress, not just illness, can kill as well.


Karen
 
I think it sounds great. I think it would be nice at the top, if you had something like:
Breed of rabbit_________________________
Name of Rabbit_____________________________
DOB_________________ Color__________________
Sire___________________
Dam____________________

I don't know that sire and dam are correct terminology for rabbits but this way it spells it all out as far as which rabbit, which litter, date of birth.

I learned from dogs that it is good to be specific. FOr instance would you be ok giving a refund to someone who did not follow your quarantine suggestion? If not, then instead of encouraging, just say it is required that this rabbit not be exposed to other rabbits in the household for a period of xx weeks for the protection of this rabbit and other rabbits in the home.

I really like that you described the parents and how the kits have been loved and cared for. I would be comfortable buying from you, things like this show someone that the breeder is putting extra effort into their rabbits, that they do care.

I am very impressed, great job!
 
I forgot to put in about crocks/water bottles, added in that the babies are used to a crock cleaned twice daily, but that they could be introduced to a water bottle, and advised an internet search to figure out how(I hate bottles, I've never had a water bottle that didn't leak.)

I changed it from suggest to require a quarantine for the health guarantee. Also added in some stuff about stress and minimal handling.

Followed Laura's suggestion, and put in that blank form, to be filled out by hand - intend to print one copy and photocopy it numerous times to save on printer ink. I was thinking about doing that anyway, or creating a certificate of birth/partial pedigree. I like putting it right on the info package though, it encourages the new owners to hold onto it. The only problem is with individuals wanting more than one rabbit - do I provide them with multiple copies, or just put the information for all rabbits on one form? I did take out the sire/dam part, as I include that initially, but added a gender line as well, as most people are relatively clueless about that, lol!

---
The paragraph about stress, inserted just before the paragraph about the guarantee :

As hard as it may be, it is best to initially start slowly with your rabbit, and introduce yourself to it at a gradual pace. Stress can be fatal to rabbits, and if you force yourself on your new rabbit, you may cause more harm than help. For the first few days, it is best to simply feed, water and clean your rabbit, as well as observe from outside the cage. This will allow it to become accustomed to its new cage and surroundings, as well as the smell and sight of you. As time passes your rabbit will become more and more curious about you specifically, and you can allow your rabbit to smell you directly, and you should be able to reach into the cage. Your rabbit will benefit from this slower introduction, and once you're able to pet your rabbit within the cage without the it being afraid, then you'll be able to handle and remove your rabbit, and the fun will truly begin!

---

Anyone here can feel free to use any parts of this, though it is very specific as to how I've handled/raised my rabbits. Thanks all so much for your input, I want to have all my ducks in a row when I start to send these guys off to new homes.

With new editing, the whole thing is actually 3 pages long. Oops, I knew I had a tendency to ramble, but holy cow!
 
Don't forget to have a signature block at the end for you and the buyer to sign, agreeing to all the above terms and conditions.

I'm sure your buyers will be very appreciative of all the info and time you have put into their new bunny.
 
Would that be better? I don't want to confuse anyone, but I also don't want to be stuck replacing a kit that someone dropped, or that was improperly fed and bloated and died.
Click to expand...

I used to offer one week and then I learned that rabbits that are going to stress will generally do so within the first 24-48 hours. Ergo I offer a 48-72 hour health guarantee (depends on age of rabbit). My explanation to buyers is that I don't know what bunnies will stress and a stressed kit will die, or at least shows signs of illness within 24-48 hours and therefore they are to call or email me ASAP and/or bring the kit back if it's not eating, pooping, peeing or being a normal bunny.

I do not return money, I will offer a different kit or they can wait until I have a replacement more suitable to them. I don't return money because some people won't listen to sound advice from a breeder and think that they know best. Knowing that there is financial considerations helps them to at least listen for the first three days so that my warranty will be honoured.

I do treat people who come to me as a breeder with a different guarantee than pet people. My assumption is that breeders at least have a basic understanding of the needs of the various ages/stages of bunnies. Some will argue and I let them. :) But I will educate to the best of my ability to the amount they allow it. Pet people get 72 hours to inform me of problems and that's really all they need.<br /><br />__________ Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:43 pm __________<br /><br />oh! for the rabbit pedigree information thing.... I would make a pet pedigree so use call names and birthdate. Put that information on a small card that you can staple to your care guide.
 
Ladysown is right about a rabbit showing stress signs in 24-72 hours. My first bunny Kreacher started to roll and cirlce, with eyes spinning in 24 hours. Ear mites which was brought on by stress. Being new, I brought him right back to the breeder. Breeder used Ivermectin, and watched over him. Told me that if I wanted, I could choose another bunny, but when we saw Kreacher doing so well after 24 hours, we brought him home. For pets definitely 72 hours. By the time I got Neville and Luna, had a little more knowledge about rabbits so should be treated differently.

Karen
 
So much more than most people get with their new bunny. You're gonna raise the bar for some of us :)
 
Well, I advertised as a 1wk limited guarantee, so I'll leave it as that for now. I only got 72hrs when I got Dobby, but since I advertised it as a week, I don't want to go back on my word. At the given advice, will lower it to 72hrs with future litters, but as I said, advertised 1wk, so will provide 1wk.

Is it fair to offer a replacement rather than money back? I don't intend to produce very many litters a year, so was worried that they'd want a replacement and I wouldn't breed again for several months. I've only got one buck and one doe, and don't want to completely flood the market with kits or exhaust my doe.

I don't like the idea of asking the buyer to sign anything, because they're really not agreeing to anything. I can't force them to follow my rules for the first week, but I can ferret out the information and refuse exchange/replacement if they didn't. I can't force them to offer me first rights if they ever sell, I can only ask and hope. If I were to switch places, and someone asked me to sign a contract or agreement when buying a rabbit, I'd tell them to get stuffed and that I'd adopt from the humane society if I wanted to sign anything or accept someone else's conditions. I want to appear caring and welcoming, not at all closed off or like I'm going to judge them. A happy customer who is satisfied with what I do will recommend their friends and turn to me if they need help.

Going to toss around the idea of a pet pedigree card. I do like the idea of including the information right on the fact sheets, though, as it does encourage them to hold onto the information. Might do both, but again, worried they'll just rip off the pet pedigree card and toss the rest into the recycling.

Lol, skysthelimit, I'm not trying to raise the bar, just doing what I personally feel is best. I love my bunnies, and I love all the babies, and I want them to have the best chance at a great life. I figure if I provide all the information I can up front, and offer continued support, I can hopefully ensure they'll have a good life. I know it won't happen in every case, but I wish the people I'd gotten my rabbits from had done the same thing, because I was clueless, and with what I know now, am surprised I had no problems.
 
Stick with what you stated at first. Future litters you can definitely go 72 hours. Don't want anyone to say you go back on your word.

Regarding signing something, I wouldn't. It doesn't even hold up in court, as much as the humane societies think their contracts do. Would turn me off as well.

Regarding replacement, when I had problems with Kreacher, the breeder really didn't have any rabbits at that time. But she said that future bunnies could be offered. Don't sweat it, though. If this should arise, you could offer a kit, but if the customer insists, give their money back. It depends on the individual.

Karen
 
the reason I don't offer money back is that after six, going on seven years breeding rabbits is I've learned some fundamental truths... people LIE. ALL THE TIME. it's ridiculous. I have NOT liked learning this. I went to some pet stores and I asked them...what do you do if a customer's bunny dies. some said ... oh nothing, it's their issue. or...if they don't buy our feed we don't guarantee the bunny. to oh, if they bring the bunny into us, we can give them a replacement rabbit. We don't offer refunds on live animals ever. Depends on the pet store, but NONE of them offered a cash refund...people do odd things even when you tell them not to. House rabbit society info floods the web so it's very easy for them to think the breeder knows nothing because ALL OVER THE WEB there is information that contradicts...

Ergo .... I'll offer a replacement rabbit and if they truly want a pet bunny, they will accept that. MIND...I've almost always got pet type bunnies around here...but the good folks...they'll wait for something. Honestly they will. Usually it's what... 2.5 months? they'll wait.
 
ladysown":3eq3coxt said:
the reason I don't offer money back is that after six, going on seven years breeding rabbits is I've learned some fundamental truths... people LIE. ALL THE TIME. it's ridiculous. I have NOT liked learning this. I went to some pet stores and I asked them...what do you do if a customer's bunny dies. some said ... oh nothing, it's their issue. or...if they don't buy our feed we don't guarantee the bunny. to oh, if they bring the bunny into us, we can give them a replacement rabbit. We don't offer refunds on live animals ever. Depends on the pet store, but NONE of them offered a cash refund...people do odd things even when you tell them not to. House rabbit society info floods the web so it's very easy for them to think the breeder knows nothing because ALL OVER THE WEB there is information that contradicts...

Ergo .... I'll offer a replacement rabbit and if they truly want a pet bunny, they will accept that. MIND...I've almost always got pet type bunnies around here...but the good folks...they'll wait for something. Honestly they will. Usually it's what... 2.5 months? they'll wait.
Click to expand...

Ladysown, so true. If a good person wants a pet bunny, they will wait. If things didn't work with Kreacher, I would have waited for a bunny. Don't want my money back, want a good, healthy bunny. Know things happen with good breeders. Am now going through this with my Flemish. Love that sweet bunny, but will not allow him to suffer because of a genetic flaw. And the breeder is not at fault. I took the chance, and lost.


Karen.
 
Bad Habit":1di5kiy4 said:
This is going to be long. Thank you to anyone who can read this and provide feedback. Do not hesitate to let me know anything that may have been left out. It looks to be about 2 pages when printed, debating personalizing it with the colour/gender of the rabbit purchased. Also, point out any spelling mistakes, as I am horrid at spelling, lol!

-------------------------------------------

Congratulations on your new addition!! You are now the proud owner of a Lionhead rabbit bred by Bad Habit Rabbits, and thank you for choosing to add a Bad Habit Rabbit to your household!

The mother of your new rabbit is Bad Habit's Lily Potter, a Japanese Harlequin 3/4ths Lionhead, 1/4th Netherlands Dwarf doe. Lily weighs in at 3.5lbs, and has very little mane. She carries the single mane gene. Her mother was Patches, a japanese harlequin 1/2 Lionhead, 1/2 Netherlands Dwarf. Her father was Brownie, an orange Lionhead.

The father of your new rabbit is Bad Habit's Dobby, a blue vienna lionhead buck. Dobby weighs in at 3.7lbs, and carries the double mane genes. He is very fluffy and has white markings on his ears, face, neck and feet. His mother was Sasha, a Magpie Harlequin lionhead, and his father was Blue, a blue vienna lionhead.

Since birth, your rabbit has been handled daily, to allow it to become used to human contact. Nothing but the most gentle handling was given to it, and it should be well on the way to a solid foundation with humans. Continue to offer your rabbit firm but gentle handling, and always end all contact on a positive note. Do not be alarmed if your rabbit struggles or is wary of you at first - they don't know you yet! Remember that your rabbit will feel most comfortable with all 4 feet supported, and never ever pick it up by the ears! You also should never scruff your rabbit as you might a cat or dog - they do not have the extra skin, and it is very painful. Instead, use one hand under the rabbit's belly to pick it up initially, and as quickly as possible, cradle it in your arms, allowing your forearm to act as a general perch for your rabbit's feet. Alternately, you can place your rabbit in your lap, or beside you.

Since weaning, your rabbit has had a litter box available to it. I use pine pellets for a wood stove, or pine pellet horse bedding as a litter medium, as it is a cheaper alternative to commercial litters. I provide a 4 inch tall cat litter box(usually available at most dollar stores) with about an inch of pine pellets on the bottom, and a nice pile of hay to encourage the rabbit to sit in the litter box. Remember that your rabbit is young, and might not be consistent about using the litter box. As your rabbit ages, it will start using the box more and more, as rabbits are very clean animals by nature, and like to use the same area to potty all the time. If you are having trouble getting your rabbit to use the litter box, check and make sure that the box is in the rabbit's preferred potty corner and adjust as needed. Your rabbit will also refrain from using the box if you leave it too long without cleaning.

For food, your rabbit has been receiving Health Diet Rabbit food, as well as unlimited mixed grass/alfalfa hay. I also feed various greens to the babies - grass and dandelions, carrot tops, apple tree branches, chickweed, raspberry cane and rose cane are all things your bunny is currently accustomed to. They have received a very limited quantity of romaine and leaf lettuce, carrots, cucumber and tomato. Please note, though, that these vegetables have been fed primarily as a treat, never a large quantity and not very often. Rabbits are herbivores rather than vegetarians, and while they enjoy the occasional vegetable/fruit treat, their diet should primarily consist of vegetation that is naturally occurring in the wild. It can be hard, but it is best to resist the temptation to provide your rabbit with large quantities of fresh food right away. This can cause digestive issues, and may eventually even lead to your rabbit's death! If in doubt, do not feed vegetation, and stick to plenty of quality hay, kibbles and of course plenty of water!

Your rabbit was raised in a home with a small dog who loves his rabbits very much. As such, it may not be instinctively wary of dogs, and this is something you should be aware of. Never ever leave your rabbit loose and unattended with any animal, no matter how much you trust both animals, and never leave your rabbit in an unsecured cage where another animal member of your family might be able to get at it. A rabbit can be quickly injured or even killed by a larger animal with the best intentions. Since your rabbit is small, and will stay small, and will enjoy running, it is best to keep it confined to a room for out of cage play time with no other animals around. You know your other pets better than anyone else, so use your best judgement when it comes to introducing your rabbit to other pets.

Please also be aware that rabbits can be very territorial. It is ill advised to try and "bond" your rabbit with another rabbit, as it can cause injury to either rabbit, and can lead to heartbreak for you. It is very difficult to bond rabbits, and can take years. Many websites will insist that your rabbit needs a friend, and while this is true, the best friend for your rabbit is going to be you! Once a rabbit becomes sexually mature(around 4mths of age), it may fight with rabbits it has gotten along with previously. You are more than welcome to attempt to bond your rabbits, however I thoroughly encourage researching and finding out as much as you can about the practice before undertaking the task.

Your rabbit comes with a limited 1 week health guarantee. I will honor this guarantee, provided that you have followed the guidelines listed here. Injury from another rabbit or careless handling/improper caging will not fall under this guarantee. I will not pay vet bills should your rabbit or any other rabbits in your home fall ill during this time. I encourage a zero air exchange quarantine for all new rabbits, be it a rabbit from Bad Habit Rabbits, or another rabbit. Should your new rabbit fall ill through no fault of your own, or pass away during the 1 week guarantee, I will exchange for another rabbit, provide full refund, or offer you first selection on the next litter. I will, however, require that the rabbit be returned if ill, or that the body is brought for my inspection.

Should you become unable or unwilling to care for your rabbit, Bad Habit Rabbits requests first right of refusal for all sales, and will happily take any unwanted rabbit in for re-homing. Never hesitate to contact if you are unable to care for your rabbit, all I want is to see all rabbits produced here find happy, loving homes. Though I may not buy back a rabbit, I will always take in unwanted rabbits, and may offer to purchase cages/supplies.

Any further questions or concerns regarding your rabbit, from questions about care and health to questions about economical rabbit husbandry, can be emailed to . You are also welcome to contact me through Facebook - the same email address - or via phone/text. My home phone is [number], my cell phone is [number]. I do prefer that you reserve phone calls for emergency situations only, though.

As always, enjoy your new pet! I am here to support you through the process of getting to know your pets and will help whenever I can. I thoroughly encourage and welcome contact regarding your rabbit, and am always more than happy to see any photos you wish to share.

Again, thank you for choosing a Bad Habit Rabbit!

[name][/quote]

__________ Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:28 am __________

Just had to hit Quote and my browser showed me all the spelling errors. I don't know about capitalization on color names and the such though. Had to change Japanese and make the L capital in the first Lionhead.
About 6-7 spelling mistakes total. Not too bad.
Click to expand...
 
Lol, didn't see this, but thanks. I'm atrocious at spelling, and rely very much on my red squiggly line. I've sent the information packet on with all of the buns I've sent on their way, and no complaints about it. It seems to be going over well, and I hope that it's helping these rabbits get their best chance at a good home :)
 
I am totally using this as a foundation for my care sheet! Thanks for making it!
 
Not a problem :) Glad to hear someone else is using it - I spent about 3 hours writing it up, LOL
 

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