Dispatching with a pellet gun...

Rabbit Talk  Forum

Help Support Rabbit Talk Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
When I started this and sought the advice of experienced people I was told by each person I met face to face that the quick whack to the back of the head was the tried and true method. Two of these people were very small women but small healthy women. I was apprehensive about my first kill and it was an emotional experience. After months of nurturing an animal and providing for its well being to kill it does not follow naturally. After having done this a few times it is still nothing to look forward to but if you are going to eat, something has to die. This is a humane, effective and efficient method. I have seen no pretty method.
 
BroodCoop":2720fdhj said:
When I started this and sought the advice of experienced people I was told by each person I met face to face that the quick whack to the back of the head was the tried and true method. Two of these people were very small women but small healthy women. I was apprehensive about my first kill and it was an emotional experience. After months of nurturing an animal and providing for its well being to kill it does not follow naturally. After having done this a few times it is still nothing to look forward to but if you are going to eat, something has to die. This is a humane, effective and efficient method. I have seen no pretty method.

A quick whack to the back of the head with what? Your hand? A length of metal pipe? "Bopping" is indeed a traditional method of killing a rabbit and if it works for you that is good... but many of us do not have the strength or coordination to do it properly. A pellet gun or cervical dislocating device like the Rabbit Wringer is a viable alternative that makes it easier for us to make a clean, humane kill.
 
Bopping though often doesn't kill but knocks the animal unconscious and then you bleed them out immediately. Some may eventually wake up if you don't and they won't be in good shape. Good way to get all the blood out if you are using them for humans or you want the most cleanliness in feeding fresh rabbit but like I said for feeding to animals you want blood in them. You don't want to bleed them out immediately with the heart still beating.

Never attempt to bop a catfish if you aren't a large male or have a very big rock on hand. They have heads like rocks and the counter was gonna give before the catfish. I've never had a kill go so wrong as trying to figure out how to put down a catfish. Those things are durable.
 
trinityoaks":1lsv2h07 said:
grumpy":1lsv2h07 said:
I suppose I'm the "odd-man-out". I've processed thousands of rabbits since the mid-70's, and all I've ever used is the "dis-locate" method.
I guess that's ok if you're strong enough and/or have big enough hands to manage it. I wouldn't trust myself to do it right (i.e. as quickly and painlessly as possible) using this method.


I've tried different methods...never tried using a dispatch weapon. I've seen ricochets and the accidental damage they can do. Even a B-B gun can ricochet wrong and an eye can easily be lost. Although rare, it only takes one time. Then it's too late.

I've never processed for the animal food trade. It's always been for human consumption. BTW I get $9.00 a pound for rabbit liver. I know my barn cats patiently wait for the lungs, kidneys, and hearts when I process a dozen or so for the freezer. I had one customer that wanted all of these parts saved and added to the package before it went into the freezer.

It's all in what one is comfortable with when it comes to processing. This is the way I was taught from an old rabbit breeder back in the 70's. I followed his instructions and became very proficient with this method. Like anything else, it takes practice. I've never been comfortable with a flopping animal slinging blood everywhere. From the time I put my hands on an animal, until they are completely expired, you'll only witness a subtle leg-kick every so often. They are immediately placed on a skinning gambrel and I always have at least one hand on it as a restraint. Again...it's a matter of personal preference.

A little tid-bit of info: Look for a Falconry Club in your area. You can get a dollar a piece for frozen rabbit heads. They use them as a training aid and treat for their birds.

Grumpy.
 
I've seen ricochets and the accidental damage they can do. Even a B-B gun can ricochet wrong and an eye can easily be lost. Although rare, it only takes one time. Then it's too late.

What's it going to richochet off of? The rabbit? The dirt under the rabbit? Grass blades? Even when I do them indoors (didn't really want to haul rabbits out to the wooded area in 0F with wind) I take care to know what is behind where I'm shooting and use the softest area of aglime. I'm debating if those cheap $20 puzzle mats are soft enough to absorb a bullet so I can shoot on the concrete and I don't have to leave blood in the horse stalls. Next fall I may have to get some and target practice one to see what happens.
 
When we have used a pellet gun, we point the rifle at the base of the skull, aiming toward the nose. The rabbit falls immediately dead, there is some back leg movement, and usually bleeds out thru the mouth. That being said, I really like my Wringer and I use it most often now.
 
Grumpy: I and all the breeders I know use cervical dislocation through "broomsticking." I am pretty well used to seeing a fair bit of kicking before I can put them on the gambrel, although sometimes there is very little. Wondering what your chosen method is... Do you do is by hand? I have been curious about that method, but a little too nervous to try it out yet as I've never seen done except on video.

My buddy just got a wringer in the mail and, frankly, I think it's the future for all my culls. I haven't tried it personally yet, but it seems really slick and he has nothing but good things to say about it. Now if I could get one for my ducks...

To all: One of my biggest peeves about processing rabbits is all the clotted blood around the neck. Anybody have experience with a technique that minimizes this or a good technique for cleaning it (other than scissors)? My Buns are all for human tables is the only reason I ask.

Akane: thanks for the hilarious note about catfish! Duly. Noted. I will make sure to have a large knife at hand if I ever meet one in a dark alley.
 
I hold the head firmly in one hand and I use my thumb placed against the 2nd cervical vertebra at the base of the skull, with their hindlegs held in my other hand. A steady pull until the animal is stretched out, then a quick upward snap with the head tilted back slightly towards the tail. They immediately stiffen and are placed on the gambrel while I restrain and keep them stretched out with a free hand. The corotid is lanced and the animal is bled out. Once the bleeding has slowed, it's a quick downward movement with the hand that's holding the head and you can feel the separation of the head from the body. The head remains attached by a loose flap of skin.

From the time the spinal cord is broken until the head is separated, is about 20-25 seconds. I've done it this way for longer than I care to think about. I've tried "whacking" them but was dissatisfied with the bruising and blood-clotting on the neck area. It takes just a few moments to clean one and drop them into fresh cold water.

It's an easy method, but one that's difficult to explain. I wouldn't have the first clue as to how to video it and place it on here.
Grumpy.
 
greeleyfarm":31ctrnfr said:
My buddy just got a wringer in the mail and, frankly, I think it's the future for all my culls. I haven't tried it personally yet, but it seems really slick and he has nothing but good things to say about it. Now if I could get one for my ducks...

There is now a dual purpose Wringer for rabbits and poultry. It's more expensive, but might be worth it if you process poultry often.
http://therabbitwringer.com/html/trpw001.html
 
greeleyfarm":1qft0h5k said:
To all: One of my biggest peeves about processing rabbits is all the clotted blood around the neck. Anybody have experience with a technique that minimizes this or a good technique for cleaning it (other than scissors)? My Buns are all for human tables is the only reason I ask.

I have heard that using a piece of rebar seems to minimize the bruising and clotting when "broomsticking"...I am not coordinated enough to use that method.. :lol:
 
MaggieJ":ibsmwk1j said:
BroodCoop":ibsmwk1j said:
When I started this and sought the advice of experienced people I was told by each person I met face to face that the quick whack to the back of the head was the tried and true method. Two of these people were very small women but small healthy women. I was apprehensive about my first kill and it was an emotional experience. After months of nurturing an animal and providing for its well being to kill it does not follow naturally. After having done this a few times it is still nothing to look forward to but if you are going to eat, something has to die. This is a humane, effective and efficient method. I have seen no pretty method.

A quick whack to the back of the head with what? Your hand? A length of metal pipe? "Bopping" is indeed a traditional method of killing a rabbit and if it works for you that is good... but many of us do not have the strength or coordination to do it properly. A pellet gun or cervical dislocating device like the Rabbit Wringer is a viable alternative that makes it easier for us to make a clean, humane kill.


Usually with a 2x4. But I have been a soft ball player most of my life, and I always used the heaviest bat the team had, and I am also a skilled martial artist. I am a smallish woman, and I have physically separated two adult male german shepherds during a fight. I do not recommend any of these activities to most people. It does take a strong hand to get it right, and I did not get it right the first time, had a lot of practice with the chickens. Now I can do it rather quickly. I probably could afford a rabbit wringer if I give up my daily coffee, when I feel the need I will either make one with the jigsaw or buy one.<br /><br />__________ Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:28 am __________<br /><br />
OneAcreFarm":ibsmwk1j said:
greeleyfarm":ibsmwk1j said:
To all: One of my biggest peeves about processing rabbits is all the clotted blood around the neck. Anybody have experience with a technique that minimizes this or a good technique for cleaning it (other than scissors)? My Buns are all for human tables is the only reason I ask.

I have heard that using a piece of rebar seems to minimize the bruising and clotting when "broomsticking"...I am not coordinated enough to use that method.. :lol:


I don't recall ever seeing a rabbit twitch after bopping it. It is amazing how much blood drains out of the nose though. I guess this whole dispatching thing would bother me more if I was actually eating the rabbit myself. Maybe. I always did enjoy dissection in school.
 
Yeah, I have to admit, the broomstick has not been totally smooth every time, and there are some rabbits that just won't sit still for it. These I have "bopped" with the same clotting result. If I don't use the wringer, I may try to work up the courage to try grumpy's method (thanks for the detailed description!).

Also, thanks to Maggie for the link. Seems like in the long run $80 would be well worth it.
 
greeleyfarm":1tpoeaua said:
Yeah, I have to admit, the broomstick has not been totally smooth every time, and there are some rabbits that just won't sit still for it. These I have "bopped" with the same clotting result. If I don't use the wringer, I may try to work up the courage to try grumpy's method (thanks for the detailed description!).

Also, thanks to Maggie for the link. Seems like in the long run $80 would be well worth it.

We have tried broomstick (no thanks), pellet gun (not bad), hubs does karate chop (also not bad, but I cannot do it) and of all of them, I like the Wringer best for myself. Very easy to use, quick and humane.
 
That is one of the main things I like of the pellet gun. You aren't pulling rabbits in to weird positions they might fight. You just set them in a pen where they likely start eating grass and *pop*. I've only had a few, usually after several are killed, and blood is in the air that bounce around and try to climb out so I have to push them down with the end of the gun. Usually pressure on the back of their head calms them and they go still. Most never know anything is happening. They just get upset they had to be caught from colony and put in a cage and then ooo grass as they sit there comfortably and that's the last thing they know. Much better than the time I wrestled a 12lb adult champagne up in to the rabbit wringer. While most are smaller sometimes I do cull breeders or don't get around to them and am facing 8-10lb rabbits which are longer in body than my arms can stretch with any force.
 
akane":2uogpcxu said:
That is one of the main things I like of the pellet gun. You aren't pulling rabbits in to weird positions they might fight. You just set them in a pen where they likely start eating grass and *pop*. I've only had a few, usually after several are killed, and blood is in the air that bounce around and try to climb out so I have to push them down with the end of the gun. Usually pressure on the back of their head calms them and they go still. Most never know anything is happening. They just get upset they had to be caught from colony and put in a cage and then ooo grass as they sit there comfortably and that's the last thing they know. Much better than the time I wrestled a 12lb adult champagne up in to the rabbit wringer. While most are smaller sometimes I do cull breeders or don't get around to them and am facing 8-10lb rabbits which are longer in body than my arms can stretch with any force.

I usually do full grown rabbits with a pellet rifle, but I have done a 10lb Cal doe with the Wringer, and it worked fine.
 
While I do martial arts still, ride horses, etc... I do it with an inherited weak back (dad's on his 4th surgery), heart condition no one can solve, and 80 extra lbs I gained the past 2 years from meds on top of a bad knee from a riding accident. I'm in no condition to be lifting multiple 10lb rabbits (I did 6 friday) in to a wringer or pulling up from a broomstick. I almost passed out twice last year while butchering rabbits in the summer cause my heart surpassed 140bpm which is the limit I can physically count out the beats. I do wonder if my wringer could do netherland and mini rex offspring that don't sell so I could feed the smaller rabbits whole but I've heard small rabbits have a tendency not to stay in properly and need the poultry one.
 
These threads all lead me to the same conclusion: there is no one "best" method.

As long as the chosen method is humane and the user is comfortable with it and competent using it, that is enough.
 
I would add that even with the "best for you method" there will be times that things go wrong.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top