yet another person wanting to start a colony

First of all this is my first post so Hello!

now back on topic lol
I'm a 4her and I noticed not many kids were selling meat rabbits....I figure that's because hardly any people sell meat rabbits (mostly all show) and the people who do charge a bit to much.....so I figured why not raise/breed some in a colony setting sell them to 4h kids, sell some at fair, and butcher the rest.
I can easily set up a pen in our barn out of our empty stall and a pen outside (to see which one we like better)
I have rabbits already so I know about the different breeds and rabbit care and I'm 15 so you could say I'm at a fairly responsible age lol
I was just wondering what breed would you recommend I want a fairly easy breed to find (I live in Michigan) and I know a couple of people who raise Flemish giants.....but I hear they have a bad meat to bone ratio and they take longer to grow.....
I like Giant Chinchillas, silver fox, and Champagne d'Argent rabbits but I'm not finding a lot of options for breeders....... I'm also wondering if they'll be upset that I'm going to sell their kits to eat....

Im open to advice and suggestions lol
Thanks, Melissa

Champagnes make good colony rabbits but tend to have litters on the smaller side. Ours are averaging 5. Laid back enough the does don't argue too bad and the bucks accomplish breeding without trying to mate so often they drive the does insane. If you want chinchillas I would go with american chins or even standard chins. The giant chins and other breeds with the word giant are crosses with flemish and have the same low meat to bone ratio unless someone has been very selectively breeding them for meat. The american chin was developped as a slightly larger meat rabbit from the standard chin without adding in other breeds. Standard chins are a popular meat and pelt rabbit in other countries but smaller than what we normally use in the US. Unfortunately american chins are the hardest to find since the meat crowd leans toward the common commercial meat breeds and the show crowd wants either the giants or standards. We went with argent breeds because we didn't want to drive halfway across the country to get enough starting stock for chins.

Ok being from michigan as well I can help ya out if you are looking to raise meat rabbits for 4-hers your best bet is Californians (they are also very common in michigan). I raise giant chinchillas along with a handful of other breeds for arba 4h and show purposes. they are not as bad with meat to bone as a flemish. they are not a cal or new zealnd by any means but they are not too bad for meat rabbits. Whatever you do decide to rasie wether it be cals nz giant chins champaignes or you name it feel free to pm me and ill give you some contact info for michigan breeders.

Runnin

thanks that's really good information .......
I'm thinking I could also have a multipurpose rabbit for meat and show..... I think I'm really liking the champagnes........i also have a more colony related question....would the best way to start a colony be to get a doe and a buck, breed them, then keep a couple of does from the litter with the mom in the colony?

I'm also wondering if they'll be upset that I'm going to sell their kits to eat?

Melissa,
I wouldn't give it a second thought.
Once you purchase the rabbits they are yours to do with as you wish.
Not every kit/rabbit produced is going to grow up to be a Pet,
Show or meat rabbit. What would you do with your culls without
the option to sell as a source of nutrition for Human or Animal?
Rabbits were grown for their nutritional value way longer
than they were thought of as Pets or Show animals.
So I don't see where there would be a problem.
Ottersatin. ldtimer:

hmmm thats an interesting way to think about it
And you do have a good point
Im going to have to agree lol

4hgirl":fidpul32 said:

would the best way to start a colony be to get a doe and a buck, breed them, then keep a couple of does from the litter with the mom in the colony?

Click to expand...

I'm pretty interested in this question too. Not so much starting a colony but adding to or replacing does. I keep reading you want to let does mature before breeding, but I also read your best chance of does getting along is to raise them together. I've been wondering how people resolve that problem as if they're raised in the colony wouldn't they end up bred too young?

My take on the question:

If you're going to sell to 4H kids you have 3 options...meat rabbit pen types (and that usually meand New Zealands because of the high litter numbers, fast growout rate, and tendency to be identical), show rabbits (you could have any purebred then) and showmanship. (showmanship is generally easier with a smaller breed that the kid can easily handle)

colony is easiest to set up with either young rabbits from different litters but just weaned (up to 3 months old) before they have time to establish "THIS IS MY CAGE!!!!" thoughts; OR a doe and then keep a couple daughters in with her...but even then the older doe may not accept the daughters as "equals".

It's easiest to keep the buck in his own pen, but hopefully so the does can rub noses with him, or at least SEE him so they stay used to him.

My colonies are mostly a few does, with the buck living in with them for 3 weeks at a time. They all enjoy the interaction. I take the boy out when the does are ready to kindle just to avoid the instant rebreeding.

I also leave the nest tunnels (1'x1'x3' long) in the colony full time. I don't put them inside the colony until the does are ready to kindle the first time...but then they stay in the colony. The does don't use the tunnels for potty rooms...just for hidey holes when they feel the need.

One thing to note...colony rabbits are more wild than caged. You really need to spend time with them to keep them tamed down. Treats are great. Don't fall into the habit of just dumping food in on them and leaving. Pick them up, handle feet, stroke noses, etc. if you're looking to sell as pets or show animals. Makes like a LOT easier when you sell them.

Problems include parasites and illnesses running quickly through the herd. Fleas and mites particularly. You also don't see if one rabbit is having troubles as easily as when they're caged. It's hard to figure out if there's a rabbit who's not drinking or eating until it's too late...so you need to be specially vigilant.