Kits Missing legs this moring!!

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:evil: :evil: :evil:

I'm furious!!

One of my favourite does had a beautiful nest of 8....
3 show marked!
Now I have 5, but they are all missing one leg each!!!

I did search the forum, and found Rats or mice could be the issue!! :eek:verreaction:

SO my question... How do I get rid of them with out damaging my rabbits, contaminating the hay for the horses or killing the barn cat?
Thanks!
 
Oh, Tricia . . . I'm so sorry to hear about your kits. :cry:

First thing to do is to figure out WHAT has access to the rabbit cages. I don't think mice would be an issue, but rats are certainly a strong possibility. Raccoons will also pull things through the wire and eat as they go, so if your cages are outdoors (sorry, can't remember) then they could be the culprit.

Assuming it is rats, you are not alone. Rats are terrible everywhere right now, it seems. Truckinguy had a major infestation recently. See his thread about it: mothballs-for-rats-t32446.html

I've trapped 27 rats in my kitchen alone in the past 10 days. All juveniles, so that means the adults are still there somewhere. I won't use poison in the house because of the likelihood of decaying rat carcasses causing a stink. I use the heavy-duty black plastic pedal-style traps. Most of ours came from Canadian Tire but you can also get them online. TomCat is one brand and T-Rex is another, IIRC.

I think the plaster and icing sugar mix is safer to use than the one-bite baits that are available. There is no antidote for the new poisons in the baits, so if your barn cat were to eat some -- or even a poisoned rat -- it could well be fatal. Another advantage of the plaster and icing sugar mix is that because it is a powder, the rats have to eat it in the place it is offered; they can't carry away chunks of it that might be ingested by other animals. If you place the plaster mix in a container inside a covered bucket with the only access being rat-sized holes in the sides, it should keep it away from other critters. A cat would not find it enticing in any case.

My suggestion is that you buy some of the rat traps and also use the plaster and icing sugar. If you place the rat traps on top of the cages, chances are that your barn cat will be safe. Peanut butter mixed to a stiff paste with brown sugar is a fairly good bait. I've also had astounding success by using some leftover fish baked with butter, tomato and onion. The black traps have a nice little cup to hold the bait which makes it harder for the rat to get it without setting off the trap. Rats are wary, so a few tiny bits of the bait put in front of the trap will let them get a free sample and lower their natural caution.

I'm still exploring options to find the best baits. Rats are attracted to the smell of very ripe bananas/banana skins, and also to anything smelling of sulphur (hard-boiled egg yolk, for instance). I haven't tried the egg yet but I remember how enthusiastic the pet rats that MidnightCoder had as a kid were about hard-boiled egg.

Good luck. Even if you don't get them all, they seem to only bother kits when their population swells and food becomes scarce. If you put a dent in the population, your rabbits should be much safer . . . though you should keep after them anyway, or the problem will come back sooner or later.

The very BEST remedy is having a weasel or mink take up residence. They can be a problem in themselves, but they will eat a ton of rats first and can usually be easily caught with a live trap baited with sardines.
 
Thank you!
The cages are in the barn... so enclosed outside....

I am assuming the "rat" got into the cage as these kits are only a week old and haven't left the nest box

the other two nests have not been bothered.... but the one mama is crazy protective and the other is one cage up, so maybe convenience?

I will be investigating the plaster mix as well as the traps at Canadian Tire.... (princess auto too!)
I am stopping for plaster and icing sugar tonight!

I will get the hardware cloth if the rat traps are unsuccessful.


Thank you!
 
MaggieJ":29a9tsdq said:
Forgot to stress that you want real plaster of Paris, not a modern substitute. Something in the real plaster throws their systems out of whack and kills them.

I believe it sets up hard in their guts so they can't digest it. It also generates heat when mixed with water but I don't know if that affects anying or not. It didn't seem like it generated THAT much heat when I mixed it for other uses.
 
Until you cam get the rat or rats you could wrap the cages as alfordm suggested or bring the babes in at night. In my experience they will keep coming back each night.
 
My guess is that when it comes to killing the most rats in a barn for the least amount of effort + money a bucket type trap in the best. You can search YouTube (or just a general web search) for bucket rat trap. The one thing that I am not thrilled about most bucket traps is that they using drowning to kill the rat.

For my friend "David", I thought about mounting a wheel based trap over a large trashcan. It would have to be tall enough so the rats could not jump out. The draw back is the live rats would need to be dispatched one at a time. I could have done this with a stick with a noose at the end. Pull the rat out of the trashcan by the neck and then break the neck with the noose. I think that would be more humane than drowning, but I would have to be up-close in person for the dispatchment. David was not interested in any version of the bucket trap.

In the YouTube mouse trap channel an automatic rat killing device was featured. It cost over 100USD so not cheep. The device was powered by a CO2 cartage and would basically "captive bolt" any rat that stuck it's head in the device. Quick, humane and automatic, I think the device quoted that each cartage could kill 200 rats (fuzzy memory don't take my word).
 
When I had a mice problem in the house, traps and poisons didn't solve the problem. It only slowed them a bit. After months I was lucky to be able to get a young feral cat in the house. Within a couple days I no longer saw mice running around. She's a very effective mouser but it still took a few weeks to get the last ones. A good mouser is certainly worth feeding her good cat food. Don't know if all ferals are good mousers but mine certainly is.
 
a7736100":395v0g70 said:
When I had a mice problem in the house, traps and poisons didn't solve the problem. It only slowed them a bit. After months I was lucky to be able to get a young feral cat in the house. Within a couple days I no longer saw mice running around. She's a very effective mouser but it still took a few weeks to get the last ones. A good mouser is certainly worth feeding her good cat food. Don't know if all ferals are good mousers but mine certainly is.

The little girl cat I took in recently is an amazing mouser, but the feral tom who hangs around the rabbitry is just as appreciated. I never see more than footprints and the occasional dead mouse from him. I couldn't even tell you what color he is, but I sure do love seeing the extra mouse carcasses on my stairs. :lol:
 

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