New with questions

I have been debating whether or not to start breeding meat rabbits. I've pretty much decided I was going to start, and start this year. I have heard so many different opinions on what the best breeds and methods are...so I came here hoping to clear up some things.

First, the breed. I have heard New Zealand is one of the better breeds to start with, and that is what I was planning on. But I have also read that California and New Zealand mixed is even better. I'm not sure what I want out of the rabbit, I do know I would like plenty of meat and rate of growth should be fast, but doesn't have to be super fast...if that makes sense.

Next, if you do mix the breeds, what is the best way to go about it? Is it better to buy mixed breeders? Better to buy pure breeders and mix them yourself? If you buy pure, which breed would be better as the buck and the does?

And finally, is there any more advice anyone can offer for someone who has never bred rabbits before? I have a general idea from reading around online about how to go about getting started, but would love some better advice about materials needed and other tidbits that would be useful to know, or things you wished you knew when you first started.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and thanks in advance for any advice.

:welcome: to the forum

It is not always the case but every show stock rabbit I've purchased has been seriously lacking in producing qualities and IMHO bloodline is more important than breed when selecting a meat rabbit so I recommend you find someone who actually eats their rabbits and/or who's rabbits do well in meat pen competitions.

I recommend you get all your rabbits from the same breeder to avoid having to separate and quarantine them for 30+ days

Don't get your hopes too high or discouraged too soon as there is a steep learning curve with bunnies

:yeahthat:

I've read lots of things about different breeds...And tried raising many different kinds. Bloodline absolutely makes a MUCH bigger difference than breed.
Too many people sell anything rew as newzealand, and anything pointed as cali..
The bloodlines (even pedigreed bloodlines) are so mixed, it seems that the hybrid vigor effect of crossing them is often already quite watered down.
I've had better growth results crossing animals with the most drastically unrelated genetics.

If you want hybrid vigor, you would typically start with purebreds, and their mixed breed kits would be what we'd call a terminal cross. The theory being that the mixed offspring bred back to either breed are unlikely to produce kits with the same growth rate.

I've been raising backyard meat rabbits for a few years now...Totally hooked on it, but, one thing that I discovered was that my interaction time with the animals meant SO MUCH more to me than their growth rates.

I do not enjoy being scratched and bit by high strung or neurotic animals, and also...Since my purpose was to humanely raise my own meat, I felt bad working with animals that were made miserable by regular maintenance interactions, like grooming, nail trimming, or petting to feel for condition. If I'd never had animals that enjoyed the attention, I may have never known the difference, but, my velveteens must have spoiled me.

After a few years of raising animals with great growth and wild-type temperments...I switched to a medium sized breed with very moderate growth and wonderful personalities. I don't mind at all that I have to have them around a few extra weeks to grow out, so long as they are pleasant and content.

I forget who on here it is, but someone mixed a Lop with their meat rabbits and said those babies are "meat bricks". So, purebreds are not everything, which is why lots of folks use 'meat mutts' as their dinnerline. There aren't any standards to conform to with mutts, unlike with purebreds. I have purebred New Zealand Reds because I like their colors and I've done a little bit of showing with them. I also have a dinnerline which is mostly NZ with whatever looks like would add to the next generation's meatiness. (I have a friend who has a lop buck....)

So if you're going to eat them, look for a rabbit that looks tasty to look at, something that has a bit of heft to it. The giant breeds aren't necessarily meatier than a Cal/NZ cross, they're just a larger rabbit.

Good point about temperament Zass poor behaviour is not acceptable in my rabbits and no matter how good looking or productive a rabbit is I won't keep them long if they are skittish or try to scratch or bite me

That was me English Spot she is 3/4 AmChin and 1/4 Mini Lop (10 weeks old in picture and almost 5 pounds :shock: ) and she and her daughter (7/8 AmChin 1/8 Mini Lop) are two of my best girls

I've done loppies with meat type rabbits and gotten GREAT offspring. They grow well too.

Things for newbies to consider

1. buy animals from one place OR buy from a couple different places all at the same time so all animals are raised together. Would suggest putting a barrier between one group and the other, but that way everyone goes through at once.

2. breed them younger rather than older.

3. measure feed.

4. don't be afraid to play around with who to breed to whom..it's all meat in the end and you'll learn a bit while do so.

5. temperament and health issues TRUMP EVERYTHING. doesn't matter if it's the fastest growing of the litter if it has a snotty nose, sneezes over dust, has allergies, bad feet or whatever. If health isn't perfect from day one, toss it into your freezer. IF it turns and snaps at you, batts you away, charges you, growls for NO reason (other than new moms with very young litters) .. toss into your freezer. Don't put up with nastiness UNLESS you like nastiness (so people do which is a go figure to me).

Thanks for all the advice. Still working out some details, but now have a little better idea of what I'm needing to look for when I get started.

Nice Chin mix, Dood!!!

What you're seeing there, KFuston, is that the front shoulders are just as wide as the hindquarters. Definitely a meaty bunny. The less egg-shaped from the top and the more brick-shaped, the better. Almost 5 pounds at 10 weeks is stellar. If you looked at her from the side, posed well, you would want to see the back rise starting right behind the head. This would mean not only meaty shoulders, but a nice, long loin that extends far up the back.

A very nice example of what we call a "meat mutt"... she probably out-performs a lot of straight meat breed rabbits.

My best advice is, if you havnt had rabbits before, get cheap mutts of CL and learn on them. As already stated, the learning curve is steep with rabbits and you DONT want the stress of learning on expensive bunnies. And dont go for huge meat rabbits at first, learning on smaller, easier to handle rabbits is MUCH easier on both you and the rabbits.

BIG DOORS on your cages! Cant stress that enough.

And a stout canvas jacket and fingerless welding gloves. My bunnies do NOT wish to hurt me but when they lash out - its when, not if, even the most laid back of my buns has been known to try to leap out of my arms with no warning - they will scratch you badly. Kits as well will struggle when picked up and have needle sharp feets.

The less YOU fear being hurt, the better your handling of your buns will be.

I dont pick up my rabbits except for health checks and breeding so none of mine like to be picked up but all of them LOVE to be petted and all the does are super calm and friendly. NO growling or biting or boxing bunnies kept here, and no screamers either. Ugh, hate that scream!