Help (Grumpy) - planning my auto waterer system

How would you suggest I run my system lines? Here is a mock up of my rabbitry (I'm switching over to all wire cages, but they will still be stacked - 30 holes). It is 15'x17.5'. I want the lines to be at the back of the cages like yours. I just don't know how to effectively hit all these cages and then back to the barrel (the blue cylinder in the middle of the rabbitry). Filling bottles is beyond getting old. Thanks for your help!

I know I'm not grumpy but are you planning on having a pump? If so I'd run the pipe along the ceiling then down and to the cages.

If it were me I would run them along the front for the following reasons 1) your going to use less pipe 2) if you have a leak somewhere it's going to be a pain to move cages to get to it. 3) if it leaks and you don't catch it is going to be that much closer to the wall. <br /><br /> -- Mon Feb 15, 2016 7:42 am -- <br /><br /> I know I'm not grumpy but are you planning on having a pump? If so I'd run the pipe along the ceiling then down and to the cages.

If it were me I would run them along the front for the following reasons 1) your going to use less pipe 2) if you have a leak somewhere it's going to be a pain to move cages to get to it. 3) if it leaks and you don't catch it is going to be that much closer to the wall.

Very nice drawing btw.

Thank you for your thoughts!

I understand what you are saying about the pipes. The thing is, the cages are hung by two pieces of conduit that are just stuck through the cage wire and set on top of the stand frame. In order to remove a cage (for cleaning or repairs) all I have to do is remove those two pieces of conduit and drop the cage. If I have the water pipe in front, it defeats this purpose. My walls are just cedar fence boards. If I have a leak and need to replace a board, it isn't that big of a big deal.

My current cages are wooden hutches. I cannot move them. I can't do any serious cleaning behind them, any repairs behind them, etc. We are also having issues with mice making nests where we can't get to them. We are hoping the new design will alleviate all of those problems. <br /><br /> -- Mon Feb 15, 2016 10:36 am -- <br /><br /> And just to clarify, I plan of following grumpy's diy tutorial (pump, nipples, recirculating). Just can't figure out the best way to run the pipe to catch all the cages and then back to the barrel. I have no choice but to have the cages stacked.

Hello Terri,

Sorry for my delay, I've withdrawn quite a lot from most sites due to demands on
what little free time I have available nowadays.

FIRST-OFF... DON'T use a saw of any kind on your water lines.
BUY a good pvc pipe-cutter... usually for UNDER $20 bucks
You'll save more time than you could possibly imagine, with no worries
of cut pvc particles getting into your system and messing up your water nipples.

TRUST ME:: This is the voice of experience speaking. LOL.

BUT::: In answer to your situation... Allow gravity to assist you whenever possible.
That being said.. you need to (if you can) elevate your water barrel to as near even,
or slightly above your water lines in your top row cages... From your schematic,
it appears you'll not be able to go completely with a gravity fed system and that
you'll need assistance with the use of a submersible pump (this is an excellent
pump considering the volume of water and the ''lift/assistance" you'll need::

http://www.pondliner.com/p-1545-pondmas ... -pump.aspx

I run these pumps 24/7 year-round... You'll need to pre-cut your pipe to the lengths
you'll need for assembly first. It's a simple matter of laying out one tier, then use
an elbow to drop to the next level... making sure all cages on one level are
connected.. Use a "Sharpie" pen to line up your fittings. When you can, buy
an extra pump to keep on hand... JUST in case of an emergency,

You'll have to figure out which way is the most practical for your set-up as far as
turning the corner on the same level of cages. All of this sounds 1000% more
complicated than it really is. Be patient... a touch hard-headed... and you'll do great.

Once all of your delivery system is figured out... you'll need to address your return
system as well. Again, it's not difficult... only time consuming. But once completed
you'll never regret your decision. I've got a dirt floor in the rabbitry... so going
across doorways wasn't an issue with me. I just elbowed down, crossed the opening
and elbowed back up to the proper level, keeping the piped tucked up close to the
bottom of the door jamb.

Everyone will tell you the watering system MUST be on the outside of the cages.NOT..
Will you have issues with rabbits gnawing on the pipe...YES... rarely you will. I've had
3 (three) in the last NINE years. with several thousand animals ran through my
production herd. Trade that problem off with having to mount water lines on the
outside BACKS of the cages and I'm sure you can see the amount of trouble you'll
have.

It's a good idea to buy fittings and pipe so that you'll have extras on all of it..
""You never know"" when they'll come in handy. Keep an eye on your pvc cement.
It'll dry out over time... and when you NEED it... it's dried out... and on a
SUNDAY afternoon or evening when all the stores are closed... Grrrrr.

The great thing about this system is the fact that 'water' (no matter the distance)
will flow to an equal elevation to the highest point in your water barrel. So, ""lift""
is only the difference between those two points.

Question: What are the floor sizes of your cages.?? Height... isn't a concern.

Best of Luck,

Terri

I already have a pcv cutter due to doing irrigation for my garden. I am familiar with working with it. I have thoroughly studied your tutorial, just had questions on my specific application. Thanks for taking a look!

So all cages on one level and then turn down to next level, then next level, then return. That was part of what I wanted to know. Will having lots of elbows cause problems with the pump? I know in hvac (heating and air-conditioning - our background) elbows create drag and cause problems with flow. I also plan to have a aux valve (like you do) to fill bottles or use to flush slant boards as needed. I am looking forward to making this much more automated. My health is requiring it (neck surgery last spring).

Also, do you run your pump submersed or in line? Specs say that pump will do either.

TerriG":3g63mlgj said:

I already have a pcv cutter due to doing irrigation for my garden. I am familiar with working with it. I have thoroughly studied your tutorial, just had questions on my specific application. Thanks for taking a look!

So all cages on one level and then turn down to next level, then next level, then return. That was part of what I wanted to know. Will having lots of elbows cause problems with the pump? I know in hvac (heating and air-conditioning - our background) elbows create drag and cause problems with flow. I also plan to have a aux valve (like you do) to fill bottles or use to flush slant boards as needed. I am looking forward to making this much more automated. My health is requiring it (neck surgery last spring).

Also, do you run your pump submersed or in line? Specs say that pump will do either.

Click to expand...

Yes.... all on one level... then drop to the next...

With the help of gravity... your ''drag'' isn't that critical.. plus water will flow naturally
Install several aux valves... saves tons of steps..

Submersed..(ALWAYS)... the water acts as a natural coolant on the motor. Untrusting
soul that I am... I ''hope'' for the best... but... ''plan'' for the worst. Any motor
driven by electrical current has the outside chance of over-heating and quitting. It's
a little more work... but my comfort level is better.