Cage for Hollan Lop?

Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Rabbit Talk Forum

Help Support Rabbit Talk Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
K

Kmc247

New member
Joined
Dec 8, 2015
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Hi,

I'm new here and need some advice on a cage for a Holland Lop rabbit. We will be getting our new baby a week or so after Christmas, the breeder said he will be ready about 8 weeks of age. He will have some out of cage time each day so not looking for a crazy huge cage. I seen the plastic bottom ones at tractor supply and our new local rural king but wasn't sure if these were to small. I would like to be able to fit a litter box in there as well so hopefully we can litter train him to not poop/pee all over the house. I read that the corner litter boxes weren't the best, but what do you guys use inside your cages to begin with?

Thanks!
 
I would give your Holland Lop at least 4 square feet of floor space. TSC has some reasonably priced all wire cages, at my store they are about $26 plus the cost of a pan which might be $15. Another option would be a wire dog crate, although those are better suited for litter trained bunnies as bedding can be kicked out easily. Plastic bottomed cages need daily cleaning to remove soiled bedding and many are too small so be sure to calculate the square footage before you buy. :)
 
I sincerely advise going for a wire bottomed cage. Plastic bottomed ones are *such* a pain, rabbits poo so much that even with bedding, you gotta clean them literally every day even if the rabbit is barely in the cage, he'll poo so much during the night that it won't matter lol.
 
I agree with the comment about a wire bottom cage. When we first started with rabbits we tried every cage that was available......... I mean....... every one! Plastic floor cages with sides, ones at TSC with wire floor and a very thin (about 1" tall) slide out pan, and everything in between.

We finally went to an ARBA rabbit show and found out that almost everyone select stackable cages (if they have multiple rabbits) and ALL have wire bottoms so that the waste can fall through and are really easy to clean (with a deep tray).

We have 18 rabbits, most are Holland Lops and we have all 24" x 24" wire bottom cages. They CANNOT be beat. You can find them at Tractor Supply, Family Farm and Home and other "feed type" stores.

Once you try the wire bottom ones like this you will NEVER go back!!!! I also made urine guards for them with metal roof flashing from Home Depot

Here's a picture of a 2 hole that we have..... (now a 3 hole).

New3HoleStack_resize.jpg <br /><br /> -- Wed Dec 09, 2015 8:22 pm -- <br /><br /> Here is our current litter 1 Holland Lop doe with 9 kits (4 weeks old).......
4wks old.JPG
 
Thanks for letting me know the pros/cons of the wire cage vs the plastic bottom. I will check these wire bottom cages out at TSC and Rural King to see what they have and their prices. I use to raise Lionhead rabbits and had 6 adults that I kept in these wire bottom cages, They were kept in my basement and weren't allowed out in the house but I had an X pen that I let them out several times per week in outside. I didn't know if it made more sense to have a house bunny in a larger wire bottom cage and a litter box, from what I read from some others they learn quite well to use their litter box and it isn't a huge mess. I could clean out the wire bottom cages for one adult once per week without any huge smell issues. So this may be the best idea. I love the home made urine guards to, great idea! I think I will definitely have my husband make something up for that too.

Thanks for all your help!
 
A friend of mine raises Hollands and litter trains all her rabbits. It makes it much easier to clean the cages when you just have to dump a litter box versus clean several entire cage pans.
 
For the urine guards.......... I cut the flashing 4-1/4" tall. I bend the bottom 1/4" in like the letter L so that any urine travels down the tall part and then is forced "in" just a 1/4" so that it lands in the pan for sure. My cages are 24"x24" so I cut the length 23-1/2" and make sure it's tight in the back corners. I then use a hole punch (or even use a nail) to make 5 even spaced holes along the top (about 1/8" down). I attach with mechanics wire from Harbor Freight. The wire is thick enough to prevent pregnant does that like to dig from pulling the urine guards off the cage.

These are extremely inexpensive to make and work like a charm!

Wire.JPG
 

Latest posts

Back
Top