"helping" a buck breed a reluctant doe

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eco2pia

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So I got a chance to get babies by Winston out of Cinnabun's mom. Her owner brought her here, and she was, um, well fed. She just flattened out and refused to lift.

Since I was determined to get her bred, I put her on the floor, and held her hindquarters up for the buck--to her credit, she did not struggle or bite, but just looked disgusted and resigned. I am hopeful, but I wondered if anyone else has resorted to this and if it worked? Her owner said she had to do the same thing with this doe last time and they got kits...

Also, if the doe is put on a diet, will she be more willing to breed, or is the pattern set?
 
I had a doe who was really overweight. She was bred, and had 3 kits. I put her on a diet when I got her, bred her a few months later, and she had 9 healthy babies. Now..that's just anecdotal evidence, and only ONE doe.

I did hold one of the angoras while the buck bred her. Not because she was unwilling, exactly..but because she was trying to kill him. Once I grabbed her shoulders she just lay there, haunches well lifted, grinding her teeth. :roll: (she had 7 kits, and is now super easy to breed)
 
Nutrition sometimes plays a role in willingness to breed. Both Vitamin A and Vitamin E are essential... and both are easily lost from pelleted food through heat or long storage. In addition to putting this doe on a diet, I'd also offer her some dark leafy greens like parsley or carrot tops or dandelions for Vitamin A and about 2 teaspoons of raw wheat germ or 5-6 drops of wheat germ oil daily for about two weeks prior to breeding day. Some people also like to add natural apple cider vinegar to the rabbits' drinking water at a rate of about 2 tablespoons per gallon. Certainly none of this will hurt the rabbit and it might just make breeding easier.
 
Demon rabbit had to be "raped". She would have injured the buck. The first time missed but the 2nd attempt the next month worked and she had 7 kits in that litter.
 
I find that my, er, more difficult to handle, and these aren't the most 'aggressive', are easier to help, most of the time, I use one hand to stretch the doe up, the other I raise the loin and put a finger infront of the vent and push it reward, this causes the tail to raise in the real reluctant. Just be careful you don't get ... um... 'poked' afew time by the buck....

I find the nice bucks don't want to deal with an unfriendly doe and would rather come get petted.
 
Lol, that was the biggest problem, he would try to breed her, and as soon as I reached out a hand to lift her he wanted nothing to do with her, he was too busy worrying about me.

I had to be sneaky, lay on the floor next to her with my whole fore arm under her whole belly so he couldn't see it. She was such a calm sweetie, she could have bit the heck out of me, but she was like a limp ragdoll. Lazy stinker, she didn't seem to care, so long as she didn't have to work for it! :lol:

I'm just glad the kids spent so much time playing with him in the house, on the dogs bed no less--I think if he weren't already really comfortable inside, it would have been impossible.
 
I remember watching a video many moons ago that was a rabbit breeding demonstration to a group of children in Indonesia (I think). They automatically held the does while the buck did his business. They didn't even give the girls a chance to play hard-to-get.
 
Oh, that'll get you bit buy my GC buck, he want's his chase
but then he also the the sort of guy who you have to wear glove and hope he is just there for the 'atta boy' at the end.
That said, I have seen him work a doe until she lifted, so...
 
I have noticed that giving them space to run around a bit goes a long way toward breaking the ice. I doubt it would change things for colony rabbits but does that are in hutches like mine are really get in a relaxed, playful mood when they get to run free a bit in a safe area. The bucks seem to really enjoy the chase and winning them over more than the quick breeding visit. It isn't my usual way of getting them bred but it works wonders for difficult does.
 

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