No, Miss M's chair makes your head hurt. :laugh2:mystang89":37servkv said:Electrical math makes my head hurt
Upcoming project. One man's trash. Got some questions!!
- Thread starter grumpy
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grumpy
Well-known member
Found out they were missing an important piece. A capacitor. Supposedly,
they had an exterior capacitor, my "buddy" forgot to tell me about.
I'm still waiting on him to bring me one.................
and He##'s gettin' frostier by the second. :evil: :evil: :evil:
Any ideas, Homer?
grumpy.
they had an exterior capacitor, my "buddy" forgot to tell me about.
I'm still waiting on him to bring me one.................
and He##'s gettin' frostier by the second. :evil: :evil: :evil:
Any ideas, Homer?
grumpy.
What?! :x Why would anyone take the caps off the motors...(sometimes they are mounted separate but not that common) Without knowing the inductance, horsepower etc. of the motor it's pretty hard to tell you the size of cap needed. Is there a placard on the motors with any information on them? Maybe I can track some down for you if there is.
If it were me I'd drop by my "buddies" place when I knew he would be there. :viking:
If it were me I'd drop by my "buddies" place when I knew he would be there. :viking:
grumpy
Well-known member
I'm headed down to the barn in a little bit. I'll do some checking.
I'm pretty sure they're Westinghouse motors.
He's supposed to be getting me a capacitor today.
grumpy
I'm pretty sure they're Westinghouse motors.
He's supposed to be getting me a capacitor today.
grumpy
Sounds good. They probably are Westinghouse, they've made a ton of motors but...There are capacitor start/capacitor run and there are cap start/inductance run. Big difference, but without a model number it hard to know the difference.
It's good your getting the original parts Maybe he can show you how it was wired so that "ear" hair doesn't stand up. :lol: If you're testing without them being mounted to something be ready for some pretty good torque when they start up unless they're soft-start motors...Good Luck.
It's good your getting the original parts Maybe he can show you how it was wired so that "ear" hair doesn't stand up. :lol: If you're testing without them being mounted to something be ready for some pretty good torque when they start up unless they're soft-start motors...Good Luck.
grumpy
Well-known member
Homer":wqofa3r5 said:
I was....but thanks for the warning. I figured they'd have a pretty hefty
"push" when they fired up. I'm anxious to see the power they offer. I'd
imagine it's pretty impressive.
grumpy. <br /><br /> -- Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:55 pm -- <br /><br /> I'm glad I wasn't "betting" on my memory...LOL.
General Electric..........................Thermally Protected.
CL B Ins-Cont Air. 06-3
5KCP39JF........ This was large caps>>>S-710S
HP 1/4
V 208-230
A 1.30
Rot >Cap 5.00/370
RPM 850
HZ 60/50 PH 1
CPN-024-27500-000
Does any of this help??
Grumpy
That's a great help Grumpy. These motors were typically used in York Single Package Rooftop Units. ( self contained HVAC package) what you have are the condenser fans that sat on the top of the unit. These motors are intended to be run in the vertical position (armature pointed straight up or down) and not horizontal. More than likely the bearings will go out prematurely if mounted in a wall etc.grumpy":zmuziy88 said:
With that said here we go...CL B Ins-Cont Air. 06-3
This means it is a "class B" insulated motor and they are typically weather proof. 5KCP39JF is GEs part number and how I found out most of this info. (google it) The CPN... is for our friends up north. This motor is built on a "48Y" frame. V 208-230, A 1.30 These will run on 208 to 230 volts only and draw 1.3 amps minimum. The cap was mounted back in the "control" portion of the roof top unit and is why it is separate from the motor. Does it look like this?
The S-710S is a 5 microfarad 370 volt capacitor.->(Rot >Cap 5.00/370) One of the sets of terminals should be labeled "cap" or maybe have a colored dot next to it or a +. The smaller brown wire you have will go there. The other cap terminal, COM, goes to your 220 neutral wire. BE AWARE, if those caps are charged they'll knock you on your butt if you touch both terminals at once. :x Discharge them by touching both terminals at once with a screw driver that has a GOOD plastic handle.
Is there and inspection cover that can be removed where, (or around), the wires run into the motor? Sometimes the motor label serves as a cover. We are looking for a simple wiring diagram. (sometimes they're on the label too)The other two wires are "probably" your hot wires but is best to verify that if we can. From what you've told me you are missing the motor's "common" which means you have no "ground" or "common" and that's what we're trying to find.
If this is all "clear as mud" let me know and I'll try to help you out. It takes two minutes to connect them and 1/2 an hour to explain it.
grumpy
Well-known member
Thanks so much Homer.
There's a schematic drawing on the tag where I got all of the info.
Boy............I had to use my magnifying glass some of that print was
so small.
I'm lucky to even be on here tonight. The internet service has been very
sporadic since yesterday morning. It's been a real bummer of a week-end.
"""Not""" related to the computer problems.....It's other stuff.
I'll try to get back on here tomorrow. It's crazy around here at the moment.
grumpy.
There's a schematic drawing on the tag where I got all of the info.
Boy............I had to use my magnifying glass some of that print was
so small.
I'm lucky to even be on here tonight. The internet service has been very
sporadic since yesterday morning. It's been a real bummer of a week-end.
"""Not""" related to the computer problems.....It's other stuff.
I'll try to get back on here tomorrow. It's crazy around here at the moment.
grumpy.
Sorry to hear you had a bad weekend. If you need more help just holler.
MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
mystang89":3gppg497 said:Homer":3gppg497 said:No, Miss M's chair makes your head hurt. :laugh2:mystang89":3gppg497 said:Electrical math makes my head hurt
LOL That too!
Bah-ha-ha!
okeeye: Good one, Homer! :lol:All this electrical discussion is a bit out of my realm, so I hadn't been keeping track of this thread... I'm glad to see that in my absence Mystang still gets his share of abuse!
grumpy":3gppg497 said:t's been a real bummer of a week-end.
"""Not""" related to the computer problems.....It's other stuff.
I hope things get better, Grumpy. I'd tell you to stay busy to get your mind off of your troubles... but that seems rather dangerous in and of itself, since you are always going nonstop as it is. :treadmill:
Always willing to help MSD. :cheesysmile:MamaSheepdog":ca0l77jp said:Bah-ha-ha!
All this electrical discussion is a bit out of my realm, so I hadn't been keeping track of this thread... I'm glad to see that in my absence Mystang still gets his share of abuse!
grumpy":nmv4x8ke said:Thanks for the advice.
Another "hypothetical" question.....
Two hot-leads off of two separate 110V lines coming into a single
connection equals 220 volts? Correct? :x
I'm trying to figure out "how" I can make a 220 pigtail to "test" the fans
before building the framework to support them. Using the hot side of a
standard cord to the one hot-side of the motor and another hot side of a
standard cord on the other hot-side of the motor..."should" bring 220volts
to the motor. I'd incorporate both neutrals on both cords to the neutral
on the motor.
Being the pack-rat that I am, whenever I've got an electrical appliance that
goes bad, I cut the cord off before throwing the appliance away. I've got
"several" cords 2-3 feet long with the male plugs still attached.
The fan has two same-sized wires....(black & yellow) and one smaller wire
(brown)...I'm assuming the brown is the neutral wire.
like Homer said -a 220 breaker to feed the 220 fan is good, I have repaired some equip for people who used 2 separate 120 v breakers to feed 220 motors, if something causes the "Breakers" to trip, sometimes it will just trip one of the breakers, and leave one on, --[ that is not good] -and Square D Homeline breakers are cheep
-- I sometimes "test" things like you are talking about, with 2 cords from different outlets, -- if you have a tester, you should not get a load [ test light] between to hot leads if they come from the same bus bar [phase] if the outlets are from different sides of the box, you should get a 220 reading between the 2 hot leads.
and -- I am not an Electrician [just so you know]
opcorn:
