Tattoo Box....pics and dimensions.

Okay....Here we go:
The box itself is made out of 3/4" plywood.
All dimensions are 'exterior' measurements.
With the exception of the adjustable floor.
That's a piece of 1/2" plywood,
which looks to be cut a quarter inch undersized.

NOTE: Keep in mind, I raise NZW's.
With larger or smaller rabbits,
you may have to make some adjustments
on the overall dimensions.

Length----20"
Width-----7 3/4"
Height----9 3/4"

First pic is the front.
It's got a sash lock for locking the lid down.
Cheap chain to keep the lid from slapping back.
View of front adjustment rods.
You can see the ear-hole.
It's centered. 2 1/2" diameter.


Second pic is the back.
Partial piano hinge across body and top.
You can see the adjustment rods for the movable floor.


Third pic is the bottom.
Two 1/4" steel adjustment rods. I'd guess they're spring steel.
Mild steel wouldn't flex like these do.
You can see they've been installed with 'pressure'
forcing the rods against the sides of the adjustment slots.

Another 'bottom' shot.


This pic shows the adjustment slots for the 'butt-board'.
They're 5/16" X 5/16" grooves centered every three inches.
Butt-Board is 5/32" Luan underlayment.
It slides easily in the slots. It's on the box body.
The "V" pattern is 1 3/4" stock. It centers the head
right under the "ear-hole" which is 2 1/2" in diameter.


The last pic is a close-up of the adjustment rods.
It'll give you a pretty good idea on how to make them.


The trickiest/hardest part of this whole deal
is getting the adjustment slots cut with the
detent cut-outs. The rest of it is pretty basic
cabinetry work.

I'd darn sure use a good brand
of woodworker's glue along with the fasteners.

I did notice that they used "hot-glue" on the
rod brackets on the adjustable floor bottom.

AND they used an air stapler to attach the
two small blocks holding the steel rods in place.

There were two slots on each of the blocks
where the rod was secured before fastening.

Hope this helps. I'm headed out to paint
the football field and won't be back till
later-later-later-later tonight.

Good Luck,
grumpy

Could you show a picture of this in work? I havn't seen anything like it and I'm not sure I get how it works. It's for restraining the rabbit while you tattoo?

Yes........it's for restraining a rabbit when tattooing.
The floor goes up or down...the butt-bar holds the rabbit in place.
The ear-hole is centered for the ear to be exposed.
Once adjusted properly, the rabbit is unable to move a great deal.
It makes it easier to work on the ear during the tattooing process.

grumpy.

I soo want one of these...would like to see pics of it in use too. Little confused about the butt-bar though...is it like the same concept of horse stocks?

Rebel.Rose.Rabbitry":3691jryy said:

I soo want one of these...would like to see pics of it in use too. Little confused about the butt-bar though...is it like the same concept of horse stocks?

Click to expand...

It allows adjustment to fit the size of the rabbit.
Young rabbit---shorter space.
Junior rabbit---a little bit more space.
Adult rabbit----Bigger still.

The floor goes up and down to accommodate different sizes as well.
The "V" in the front allows the rabbit's head to be adjusted into that space, by raising the floor.

Once it's locked....the rabbit is "there" and can't move
away from the ear-hole.

grumpy.

grumpy.. can you share your hay catcher please.

Mary Ann's Rabbitry":2tx1dbmi said:

grumpy.. can you share your hay catcher please.

Click to expand...

You betcha....here they are.

skysthelimit":2tx1dbmi said:

It's the best. Gonna make my holder tomorrow.

Click to expand...

I finished the hay-holder yesterday afternoon, Sky.
But....I had an epiphany.
Plus....I wanna 'show-off' a little bit.
I've got an old practice I've used for years that
I want to incorporate into the new hay-holder.
It won't take but an hour or so to make.
But it's as handy as a pocket on a shirt.

Grumpy.

__________ Sat Sep 07, 2013 10:11 am __________

My usual spot for my hay.
Again, I didn't care for it on the ground.
The lower portion would 'wick' moisture
and become stale smelling.

NOTE: I've already got the cleat leveled
and installed where hay-cabinet/catcher goes.
It's easier than trying to hold the cabinet 'level'
and in 'place' while trying to attach it to the wall.


It is nothing real fancy, but it works!!
I'd halve the bale and place each portion side by side.
I scrounged an old litter pan and washed it out good.
It carries the hay much easier than trying to handle a flake.
I got this installed late yesterday evening. Then..I got an idea.


Anyone hazard a guess what this is for??
I was up early and in the shop working on this.
Took me about an hour to make, but I'm gonna like it.
Looks kinda weird doesn't it.


Have you figured out what it is, yet?
Here's where it went. Just under the hay-rack.


Installation complete!!! Sure is handy to set the 'hay-pan' on.
One can never have enough shelf-space. At least I can't. LOL.
I've made dozens of these sliding shelves on different projects over the years.
All have proven to be very handy.


Here's those pics of the shelf.

The first pic is of the shelf about half-way in.
You can see the 'tracks'/runners screwed to the hay-box.


The next one shows the shelf extended.


The shelf itself is reinforced by two large cleats,
and a smaller one. The front cleat also acts as a handle.
These keep the OSB from sagging.


The final pic shows the 'slot' cut out of the track.
where the shelf slides in and out of place.
There's about 3/32" side-play between the shelf and the tracks.
And 1/16" from the top of the sliding-shelf
to the bottom of the hay-rack.


Hope these have helped.
For sure in this instance,
a picture is worth a thousand words.
Thanks for looking.

grumpy.

very nice... great idea... thanks for sharing.. where do you put the hay in the rabbit cage.. how do you have that set up.. and hay rack in the cages? do you have a lot of mess on the floor?

Mary Ann's Rabbitry":nrrj4rw0 said:

very nice... great idea... thanks for sharing.. where do you put the hay in the rabbit cage.. how do you have that set up.. and hay rack in the cages? do you have a lot of mess on the floor?

Click to expand...

I've got hay-racks I made. They're attached to the outside
of the pen...I'll take some pics tomorrow and post one.

They're not much, but they hold the hay pretty good.

I've got some 16" tall replacement cages and I usually
just set the hay on the top of the cage for those rabbits.
The rest get a hay rack.

grumpy.

Thanks for the box pictures, grumpy! I think that should definitely do to help me and my woodworking class instructors draw up and execute a construction plan. I'm going to get some funny looks from my fellow classmates though - they're all doing cutting boards and coffee tables and such.

grumpy":37avenj6 said:

Mary Ann's Rabbitry":37avenj6 said:

very nice... great idea... thanks for sharing.. where do you put the hay in the rabbit cage.. how do you have that set up.. and hay rack in the cages? do you have a lot of mess on the floor?

Click to expand...

I've got hay-racks I made. They're attached to the outside
of the pen...I'll take some pics tomorrow and post one.

They're not much, but they hold the hay pretty good.

I've got some 16" tall replacement cages and I usually
just set the hay on the top of the cage for those rabbits.
The rest get a hay rack.

grumpy.

Click to expand...

Mary Ann....sorry I didn't get the pics yesterday.
I had a young couple with their daughter come over and visit.
The mother is interested in going commercial and wanted to see my set-up.
We spent several pleasant hours together just talking about commercial rabbit production.

They left with two full-sisters ready to breed.
And a 7 m/o buck out of one of my foundation bucks.
One of the sisters was 'ready'. So, she left here 'bred'.
She should have an excellent litter full of replacement stock in about 30 days.

I'll try again today to get some pics.

grumpy.<br /><br />__________ Sun Sep 15, 2013 6:59 am __________<br /><br />

JessiL":37avenj6 said:

Thanks for the box pictures, grumpy! I think that should definitely do to help me and my woodworking class instructors draw up and execute a construction plan. I'm going to get some funny looks from my fellow classmates though - they're all doing cutting boards and coffee tables and such.

Click to expand...

Jess: Glad to be of help. Post some pics of your tattoo box when you're done.

Have a great day.

Grumpy.

No problem... No rush .. Just when you have time.

grumpy said:

Okay....Here we go:
The box itself is made out of 3/4" plywood.
All dimensions are 'exterior' measurements.
With the exception of the adjustable floor.
That's a piece of 1/2" plywood,
which looks to be cut a quarter inch undersized.

NOTE: Keep in mind, I raise NZW's.
With larger or smaller rabbits,
you may have to make some adjustments
on the overall dimensions.

Length----20"
Width-----7 3/4"
Height----9 3/4"

First pic is the front.
It's got a sash lock for locking the lid down.
Cheap chain to keep the lid from slapping back.
View of front adjustment rods.
You can see the ear-hole.
It's centered. 2 1/2" diameter.

Second pic is the back.
Partial piano hinge across body and top.
You can see the adjustment rods for the movable floor.

Third pic is the bottom.
Two 1/4" steel adjustment rods. I'd guess they're spring steel.
Mild steel wouldn't flex like these do.
You can see they've been installed with 'pressure'
forcing the rods against the sides of the adjustment slots.

Another 'bottom' shot.

This pic shows the adjustment slots for the 'butt-board'.
They're 5/16" X 5/16" grooves centered every three inches.
Butt-Board is 5/32" Luan underlayment.
It slides easily in the slots. It's on the box body.
The "V" pattern is 1 3/4" stock. It centers the head
right under the "ear-hole" which is 2 1/2" in diameter.

The last pic is a close-up of the adjustment rods.
It'll give you a pretty good idea on how to make them.

The trickiest/hardest part of this whole deal
is getting the adjustment slots cut with the
detent cut-outs. The rest of it is pretty basic
cabinetry work.

I'd darn sure use a good brand
of woodworker's glue along with the fasteners.

I did notice that they used "hot-glue" on the
rod brackets on the adjustable floor bottom.

AND they used an air stapler to attach the
two small blocks holding the steel rods in place.

There were two slots on each of the blocks
where the rod was secured before fastening.

Hope this helps. I'm headed out to paint
the football field and won't be back till
later-later-later-later tonight.

Good Luck,
grumpy

Click to expand...

I know this is an older post, so I'm hoping you still see this. Where did you get this box? Like who sells them? I used to have one 25 years ago EXACTLY like it and my mom got rid of it. Now I'm getting back into rabbits and cannot seem to find them anywhere!

Thank you!

Amanda said:

I know this is an older post, so I'm hoping you still see this. Where did you get this box? Like who sells them? I used to have one 25 years ago EXACTLY like it and my mom got rid of it. Now I'm getting back into rabbits and cannot seem to find them anywhere!

Thank you!

Click to expand...

Good luck. Mostly when I see wood boxes of the right size for, especially, larger meat breeds, someone has built them custom - either the breeder or a local craftsman. I finally went with these metal ones so that I had the right size for my Tamuks and Americans:

https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=2A35465D-5951-4D43-A616-4D0A0F9B9AC4
I found this company after purchasing those nest boxes. I have purchased other things form them and they have super customer service. I checked and they have custom wood boxes. Just know that the shipping is going to be a significant part of the cost.

https://www.allthingsbunnies.com/Wood-Rabbit-Nest-Boxes-p/nb109.htm

Oh shoot, this wasn't about nest boxes, my bad.