Meals On Wheels----Rabbitry

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Okay, I don't know how far into infirmity you intend to do the rabbits, but that looks easily wheelchair accessible...

I would pull the cages out from the wall a bit and about 10 inches lower, so I could add another layer with drop-board shields for the upstairs pee-pee. Yeah, double the cage space.....maybe with grow-out pens up top.....and joist shields on the walls to keep buck spray off...see, and I DO have an old camper.....

HA. Hubs took one looks at the pics and told me not to even think about getting that involved....and I didn't even mention doubling up on your plan.....he keeps buying ammo, I keep buying rabbits...I'll stop when he stops....i.e. never.
 
owlsfriend":qtatjhzu said:
he keeps buying ammo, I keep buying rabbits...I'll stop when he stops....i.e. never.

Sounds like my house. I think we're responsible for buying AmmoMan his dream vacation home. :roll:

You might mention to your recalcitrant husband that since the unit is mobile, no building permits would be required.
 
owlsfriend":2djzw8ed said:
he keeps buying ammo, I keep buying rabbits...I'll stop when he stops....i.e. never.

Too funny! We're in a similar situation; my husband keeps buying gun parts, so I bought rabbit cages, so he bought more gun parts...I told him if he buys another part, I'm buying my rabbits!
 
owlsfriend":2dlc7ofb said:
Okay, I don't know how far into infirmity you intend to do the rabbits, but that looks easily wheelchair accessible...

I would pull the cages out from the wall a bit and about 10 inches lower, so I could add another layer with drop-board shields for the upstairs pee-pee. Yeah, double the cage space.....maybe with grow-out pens up top.....and joist shields on the walls to keep buck spray off...see, and I DO have an old camper.....

HA. Hubs took one looks at the pics and told me not to even think about getting that involved....and I didn't even mention doubling up on your plan.....he keeps buying ammo, I keep buying rabbits...I'll stop when he stops....i.e. never.
Yea I told the wife a few days back I could make a wheel chair ramp to the door if ever got where i needed one. I Can not see doubling the cages for my use--20 holes in it is more than I need(plus I have a 9 hole set-up I am not using---its Not on a trailer. I had that thought, if a processing plant opened closer to me I might raise some to sell-so you never know. If I was to stack the cages I would have to redo all the doors---Mine open on the top. On second thought I would just build another one instead of stacking----for myself, I had enough of stacked cages.
 
Okay, Fire-Man, I'm calling you out on your offer! :D

I've been going back and forth between building a shed for my rabbitry here at the house we're trying to sell (really would hate to invest the time and money into it, then move) or waiting til we find another place, and with your design, I don't have to choose!

So, what do I need to know to build a 10 cage trailer? How do I do it? What do you do to prevent buck spray over the vertical joists (or are they water proofed so it doesn't matter?) Are there any parts that could be built with reclaimed wood, or should it all be water proofed? (If it makes a difference, it will eventually end up in AZ, God willing.) How long did it take you to build? I don't have any "training", per se, but I can figure most things out, and I'm pretty creative, so I think this is a project my husband and I can tackle.

Thanks again for sharing your ingenious idea with all of us!!!
 
PistolPackingMoma, Everything from the top of the cages down are treated except for the floor board walkway. It is sawed/rough lumber. I was trying to hold down expence, but If I was to do it over the walkway would be treated too. That would make it easier to spray/wash everything. I worked on it when I had a chance--probably over a 3 week period. Now I did build it by myself. If I could have worked on it every day and had everything it would have taken me less than 5 days by myself. You can see in the pictures that I have some white metal pieces over the top of each floor joist--these are to keep urine/poop off the top edge. All my cages have urine guards across the back and end. I got one buck that likes to see how far he can "shoot it" I am adding a shield from the bottom his cage to the floor joist--LOL. You could build the whole trailer out of untreated/salvaged wood, do not know how long it will last! If you would treat all the exposed lumber with a water seal I am sure that would help. If you were going to build one like mine, I would find a old camper or frame that The frame is in good shape. I would tear everything off and start from the metal frame. I have heard and seen pictures where people just used the camper as is, hung some cages and throwed in some rabbits. If you wanted to do that, catch the poop and urine so its not all over the floor---You could do that till you got moved then rebuild/start over etc.
I decided to build mine to last, I am 57 and I did not want to have to rebuild my cages/housing in a few years so I spent some extra and went with the treated hoping it will last for years to come. I will probably have to replace the non-treated walkway in a few years but that will be simple to do.<br /><br />__________ Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:33 pm __________<br /><br />If you decided to use a old camper and tear out some cabinets etc, remember this--the strength of the camper counts on the cabinets for extra support. If you tear out to much it will weaken it where it might not be able to handle being pulled on the road.
 
PistolPackingMomma":plqxsqjg said:
I was thinkin of just picking up a 10'-15' utility trailer, and building up from the bare bones. How did you attach the wood frame to the metal?
What I did is drill a hole in the frame/beam and put a screw UP through the hole and screw it into the each joist.

RabbitTrailer004_zps5afaeec2.jpg


You need to figure how long your cages will be side by side before you get a trailer so you will know how long of a trailer you will need. I have found several camper trailer frames for around $100 already striped. Put a add on craigslist Looking for a camper trailer frame--and see what you can find and also search for them.
 
Okay, I've found a few trailers in my area that may work. There's a 7'4"x 5'4" trailer for $180 OBO, that needs new tires, and all the wood would have to be stripped off. I might be able to reuse some of that wood if I sanded, painted and sealed it, but if the wood isn't usable, and I opted to just buy pressure treated wood, would I have to seal it?

As far as cage spacing, I currently have five 30x36's, so what I was thinking of doing, was doing two on either side, and putting the fifth parallel to the back end. (Does that make sense?)

Did you have to do anything particular to shelter the tires, or was that already taken care of?

How far apart do you recommend placing the floor joists, or did you just attach where ever there was frame?

Considering I'll likely be building this on a micro scale, compared to your set up, do you think I could just use white corrugated roofing? Or is there a particular draw back to not using it? (Weight, heat retention, durability?)

What would you recommend if the floor is solid metal? Maybe having "pee boards" under the cages tilted to the outside?
 
PPM,

if you are planning on hauling it, I think you need to contact the DMV and find out what their requirements are for road worthiness.

It sure is a great idea though- I think Fireman's Meals on Wheels will be sweeping the bunny-crazed among us!
 
PistolPackingMomma

The trailer you mentioned sounds to little. Your cages being 30" deep would equal 5ft of space inside a trailer if hanging on each side. You need to keep that in mind----if you had a trailer thats only 6ft wide inside---with 30" cages on each side means you would only have 1ft in the middle/walk space----no way would that work. See SC does not require a tag, being you probably have a SC lic and Tags you will be ok---if you get stopped on your move, you just tell them you are from SC and you are hauling a load to where ever. You will have to have working lights and your mirrors have to be out far enough on your tow vehicle to see on each side of the trailer(you can buy cheap extensions if needed). Now back to the trailer--you will need to build your trailer 8 to 8 1/2ft(max allowed) outside so you can have some space in the middle if you are going to hang 30" cages on each side. The cage across the end will not work even if you had enough space between the cages---there would be no where to put your feeders, waters or side doors on the two side cages if you hung a cage there. One other thing you need to check when you find a trailer is the axle width and make sure its a heavy duty axle. It would also be "best" for the axle to have electric brakes. The axle width needs to close to the width you are planning to build the trailer so if you have no way to extend it you need to measure it to make sure it is close. If your trailer is 8ft wide the axle around 7ft would be better but a slight bit less would work but 6ft I would feel is to narrow.
A trailer with a steel floor will cause you ALOT more work, but can be done. On the floor joist spacing I would go no more than 24" center. I did not "shelter" my tires but that is simple to do, just make a metal upside down V shield or cut a 15gal plastic barrel in half length wise and mount the halfs over each tire. (this page is full and jumping--lol)

__________ Thu Mar 07, 2013 8:05 pm __________

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If you would find a old camper/or frame for cheap would be the best. It will be wide enough, the axle will probably be just right. If you find a trailer that has the old mobile home axles under it---RUN, Forget it--Those are not Legal anymore.
Your cages could be cut down to say 24" deep if needed but maybe you can find a wide enough trailer. I think I answered all your questions-LOL. If not ask them again.<br /><br />__________ Thu Mar 07, 2013 8:30 pm __________<br /><br />On the "white corrugated" roof panels---if you are talking about the white that lets light through and made out a form of plastic-----I would not want to use them being you are planning to pull it.

Also one other thing I thought of----If you do the sides of yours similiar to mine with wood sides from the top of the cages up------If you would hinge a water proof board say 1 to 2ft deep where you could support it out at say a 45 degree angle, it would give the rabbits some shield from the rain as well as the Sun, then when you get ready to pull this trailer you can let these down and latch for transport and back up when you get there.
 
Boy, I am glad you are walking me through this!!! I wasn't thinking about how much space would be between the cages for me, or anyone else who might need to get in there. I also know nothing about trailers, so the tip for heavy duty axles is important!

I've been talking it over with my husband, and decided that we may have to wait before we can build this, but I'm keeping all these tips and notes for the day I do get to build my own bunny bus! Thank you, Fire-man, for sharing your expertise!
 
Update! I figured I would give a update. I been using this Meals On Wheels trailer heading towards a year soon and I Still Love it! Its been the easiest to take care of the rabbits over any thing I have ever used. It is easy to keep clean. It only takes minutes per week to dump the screens/poop. With my previous set-up with the angle tin and drains---it probably took me 2 to 3 hours per week just to wash down the tin, clean the drains etc. I really enjoy raising rabbits now!!
 
Missed a good deal on an old pull camper a week or so ago.
$300.00 for a 28 footer and it could be "towed-away". RATS!!

I'm still keeping my eyes open for one of these deals.
When I find one...it's gonna be MINE!!

grumpy.
 

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