coccidiosis

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Shara

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I am getting a buck that needs to be treated for coccidiosis. Is it safe to treat my whole herd as a "just in case" measure? Kinda since I am treating him, can I treat everybunny like this? My youngest kits right now are 10 weeks, then I have a bunch of three month olds, a few around 6 months, and an older doe (possible due in seven days).

I have no reason to suspect an infection in my herd, but thought I could treat n case.

Good Idea? Bad Idea?
 
you don't have him yet?
I would insist they treat him - or at least start treatement ....
I'd keep him isolated (well) and finish treatment

Coccidiosis is not something I want around my animals ;)<br /><br />__________ Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:12 pm __________<br /><br />what are you treating with?
personally I tend to the miminal medicatio route .. so if I thought my herd was clean I wouldn't treat - if they'd had contact with him I would treat all
 
For heaven's sakes, Brody is right. You don't want him around your other rabbits... It's just asking for trouble. If you can back out of the deal, do it... If not, practice strict isolation protocols for at least six weeks or a full month after treatment ends.

I think this would be far better than treating everybunny for coccidiosis. What does the treatment consist of?
 
I would not knowingly purchase any ill rabbit.
If you have already accepted the rabbit it is not a big deal.
Coccidiosis is easily treated. See my Website click on link to Diseases.
you will see the treatment. A good way to prevent Coccidiosis is
to sweep any cling-ons from the cage floor within 24 hours.
It takes that long for the Ooocysts [eggs] to become infective.
A normally healthy rabbit can easily cope with the problem.
It is only when the Coccidia overpopulate that it becomes a problem.
They can be easily eradicated.
Dennis, C.V.R.
 
coccidiosis isn't all that hard to treat for. Doesn't overall harm rabbits to be treated for it either (as in doesn't upset their gut flora).

You do have to hold back any meat for 30 days (me... i'm prone to being nervous and I'd do 1.5 months).

I've been there, done that. I've learned that cleanliness is the top priority when it comes to beating it.

Overall....if you keep your cages clean it's not an issue. A normally healthy rabbit can bear a minor load without issue. Me... I'd take him (and negotiate for a lower price). I"d isolate him and treat him. and once I was finished the treatment protocol and he's gone through a month quarantine I'd have no problem letting him into the herd.

Coccidiosis I find hits the babies. So keep those nursing does and babies clean and it will all be good. The treatment I use is a 2 week treatment using sul-met.
 
Well, he's free, and has won at a few shows, So I plan on getting him but keeping him isolated. I was just curiousif it was something I could safely treat for in my herd, without doing a test to see whether or not they have it. I don't have any meat animals right now, so it wouldn't bother me too bad to have to wait to eat any (I am not eating any of these any time soon.

However, maybe I should just practice great isolationism and find out where to do a fecal. then i wont be treating who I dont need to
 
I believe OSU will do a fecal. You should be able to call the extension office up there and they can tell you more. :)
 
Thank you Paula!<br /><br />__________ Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:00 pm __________<br /><br />Oh, yeah, what's an extension office? I hear about them all the time, but have no IDEA what they are, other than helpful people. lol
 
Helpful EXPERT people! It is usally associated with the county you live in or the nearest Ag college. Find them in the county government pages of the phone book or under the name of the nearest state college--in your case OSU, in mine WSU. When I lived in Lane County, there was a Lane County Extension Office, which might have been listed that way, too--can't remember, I was a kid. Nowadays, mine was in the white pages under Washington State University-Extension, and there are two, one closer than the other.

They can help with soil anylsis, weed, plant disease, and bug identification, some help with infromation on canning and livestock production, too. It is local infromation, tailor-made for your little micro-climate.
You generally don't have to pay for the information, and even if you do(like for a soil test) they are not for-profit, so it is cheap and you can be sure they are honest and not trying to sell you anything.

They are volunteers or low-paid, so sometimes you have to come "the 3rd wednesday for bug I.D., the 2nd monday for plant diseases" or something. Nice people!
 
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