kicking

Is it common for rabbits to kick every time you pick them up? I don't remember the rabbits I had as a child kicking like this!

I even kept some of the babies that were very calm when being picked up and put down but now as they are aging they are doing it too just not as bad.

I brought them outside today for some fresh air (cages still aren't finished-almost tho) and let them enjoy some grass and man my arm is tore up! No matter how I hold the 2 older does it happens. If I try to put one of the does head into the crook of my elbow I get a nasty bite. Well who am I kidding I get bit any time I try to hold her or do something with her (nail clipping=OUCH) lol

Anyway.. is there a way to train them not to slice my arms up with those back feet? I thought by keeping the non kicking babies I wouldn't have this problem.

I have diabetes and am pretty fearful of infections. Thought about getting long sleeved gloves but I'd rather teach them it's safe in my arms vs needing to find the gloves any time I have to pick one up.

it depends on the personality of the rabbit and the way you pick them up. I have some that hate it and will kick, others that are fine with it, and I even have some rabbits that prefer to be held a certain way. you can try different ways or wear a really thick coat when picking them up.

I handle all of my rabbits bare handed. I do get scratches, mostly from fryer aged buns when I'm moving or sexing them, but for the most part I can handle all of my adult stock without fear.

It's partially knowing how to pick them up and put them down in ways that allow them to feel secure, and thus do not trigger them to kick.
It's partially due to the fact that any rabbit here who bites or kicks, not from fear, but with intent to maim will end up euthanized.
There is a world of difference between kicking or scratching while trying to escape or gain some sort of purchase, and raking for the purpose of harming the handler.
I don't tolerate raking...

People do have very different tolerance levels, but I don't know too many people who would want a rabbit who bites at them while being carried. That's pretty extreme..What I'm saying is that the biting while being handled thing is NOT NORMAL or acceptable in many rabbitries. If they were just pets it might be different, but I know you are also breeding them.

I feel that selling rabbits that try to maim people to be just as unconscionable as selling a dog who is a known biter.

:yeahthat:

If they are small breeds you can pick them up by grabbing the skin on the middle of their back. Make sure you are doing it at least half way back so they can't kick. The worst thing to do is to grab it near the neck like you do a cat because the hind legs will be free to kick and scratch. Once you picked it up by the skin place your other hand under the belly to support the weight. If you can at least cut the sharp tips of their nails so you don't get sliced when they kick. Most rabbits have to be handled while young so they don't kick. I think lops tend to be more layback and kick less.

I don't have much time to reply right now tho I do want to say the female who bites is the best mom. My other doe is horrible. I mean she feeds them but barely.

Also the biting doe, I personally have kept 1 rabbit from the breeding. It's chubby chestnut. But he will be my breeder and I'm hoping he has fads personality and also hoping because he is a buck he will be nicer. If it turns out that he will be nasty he will go. My family members who want buns I've told all of them they can't have any from ruby only ebony because of the biting! Ebony is very sweet! And the dad is suuuuuperrrr sweet <br /><br /> __________ Wed Apr 20, 2016 10:07 pm __________ <br /><br /> OK I have a little more time now

As for different ways of holding, the black doe (ebony) is a very nervous rabbit. When she kicks hers is out of fear, she's never bitten anyone. I've tried holding her in many ways and she still freaks out. She is also the mom that isn't the greatest at feeding her litter. So I'm at a crossroads.. freezer camp or hope she gets better at being a mom?

Ruby, she's the spawn of satin. She's fine in her cage, even presents at times for petting. But any time I try to hold her or move her I get nailed. Even if she's just sitting in my lap. She doesn't just nibble my clothes she purposely tries to get me thru my jeans or shirt. But yet again, I'm at a crossroads.. she is a great mom, feeds her kits so plump they grow fast and she has plenty of milk. But she's nasty!

So basically I have 2 does I'm not happy with. I'm hoping tho I can possibly produce sweeter rabbits and good moms. If after a generation or 2 it's not working and I still have evil buns. I'll try a whole new herd.

But never fear.. I fully agree that nasty buns should not be given/sold as pets. (No animal should be bred with bad genetics/temperaments) I'm not sure what post it was but I did state a while ago that some family members wanted some as pets and I said in that post no babies from ruby!! I don't like the fact that I got a nasty breeder.. can't imagine if it was some little kid with cujo bunny!

If she is OK in the cage, and OK with you around kits, that means she's not being territorially or hormonally aggressive...

I'd almost think it's an entirely different sort of issue. Every time a rabbit gets what it wants after biting (for example left alone) it reinforces the behavior.
That can lead to a situation where a rabbit is actually trained to bite.

She would likely benefit from a more authoritative style of handling. Secure (but not painful) physical restraint is sometimes helpful, with buns receiving the "reward" of not being restrained when they become complacent, instead of the "reward" of not being handled after biting.

The real trick is to prevent fear from ever being part of the equation, since fear can lead to a much harder to break sort of aggression.

Well, I guess I'm one of those with higher tolerance levels. None of my rabbits likes being picked up, it needs some cunning to even get them, but well, I like their independence and strong will, and they are no pets.

When I started with rabbits I looked like I did sparring for Freddie Krueger, but over the years I learned how to handle them without being maimed. I still wear a thick jacket now and then.

Once I have them keeping them under controll is not difficult, hand on their head with two fingers down in front their shoulders helps a lot. If one bites, actually, they nip - I've seen biting with intention to kill, that's something different, anyway, they just chew on my clothes, don't do any real harm even to bare skin, I don't react, just wait somewhat longer before I let them go.

And as being said: If they feel that you are not 100% sure what you're doing, if they smell fear, that if what's happening is not matter of fact, but something to dispute about - then it's a harder time for both of you. Never apologize for what your doing. They accept a swift, determined action better, without having time or reason to gear up their fear and panic.

If I see that a rabbit goes into full defense mode I skip it, stay there a few minutes and go, next try 10 minutes later. Oh, and never forget what treats can do...

Definitely not afraid of them so I know there are no smells or vibes coming from me. I just don't like it. Those back feet hurt. And ruby does not just nip. If she only gets my clothes she pushes in harder to bite me.

I don't ever immediately put her down because I'm usually doing something with her. (Taking her to the exercise pen, nails and just to hold her because I still try to get her to like me and even once had her on my lap giving one of the other does kits an extra meal) any animal will learn from behaviors that will benefit them. Cats / dogs with nail trimming or bathing, they win the fight have fun the next time! Begging for food, they learn who shares..

I was accepting the bites because she's a greattttt mom. I don't like it. But I'd rather have a clean cut bite than a scratch with those back feet. And it's easier to avoid the teeth. No matter how I hold some of them, ebony is the worst tho. In my elbow, against my chest, scruffed.. it just sucks.. hopefully I can produce some that will tolerate being picked up.

Tip them on their back as soon as you pick her up forearm along her body van hold her feet with your free hand for extra protection head is usually locked in beside body so they can't bite. This works for us plus the kids but we have mini lops so they don't tend to scratch and bite. <br /><br /> __________ Sat Apr 23, 2016 1:44 pm __________ <br /><br /> Tip them on their back as soon as you pick her up forearm along her body van hold her feet with your free hand for extra protection head is usually locked in beside body so they can't bite. This works for us plus the kids but we have mini lops so they don't tend to scratch and bite.

My rabbit kicks a lot, as well. He mostly kicks when I am about to put him back in his cage. He does nip, but not as bad as that. I hope you can find a way to make her stop kicking lots.
as Celice said it mostly depends on the personality of the rabbit. My rabbit's personality, is hyper and full of energy, but sweet at times.

Zass":ley5sms7 said:

It's partially due to the fact that any rabbit here who bites or kicks, not from fear, but with intent to maim will end up euthanized.

I don't tolerate raking...

...I don't know too many people who would want a rabbit who bites at them while being carried.

Click to expand...

Those rabbits are the tastiest.

I handle barehanded, but I wear sleeves. I use the "football carry" with my rabbits so their head is under my arm and body supported on my forearm. If they start to struggle while I'm moving them, I stop walking and increase pressure on my hold, drawing my carrying elbow toward my body and applying downward pressure with the off-hand. This seems to calm them and help them resign themselves to being carried.