I'm throwing in the towel on colonies

It's only been a month. Maybe I should give it more time. Maybe I'm being to reactive. But I just can't do it anymore.

I spent 4 hours today cleaning out the colony. It was very nice to have all that mulch to put directly on my potatoes, but it was also 4 hours I don't really have every month or more.

No one warned me how vicious rabbits are. They're mean to each other! This wasn't in any of the books or guides I read!! What attracted me to colonies was how "natural" it is. If this is how rabbits are naturally...no way. They can live unnaturally.

It might work for some. I've come to realize it isn't going to work for my herd. There are too many unknowns, and I need to make this as efficient as possible.

We're working on plans to build a hutch system similar to this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSBTvEXNQ2s Any input would be appreciated.

I'm sure you can find posts on here that say rabbits are down right evil to each other.

They only stand each other for breeding and hardly want to be near their own kits. There's no reason a colony would work w/o people breeding rabbits who want to be around other rabbits.

Colonies are a money pit with the hay and bedding waste, need concrete or they dig out and to make poop scooping easy.

Rabbits hate each other, there's nothing natural about a bunch of adult rabbits living near each other in any kind of space an average person could give them.

My issue was, they just refused to breed! Does had far too much room to get away and the buck flat out could care less about a rabbit who didn't want to just lay down for him. Later on, two sister does fought after one had her litter. Even in a 25ft round area and plenty of hiding areas. Doesn't matter, rabbits hate other rabbits and that is the norm.


I'd give up on this if you can't deal with the fighting, possibly killing/serious injuries and the mess. Those wooden cages are a lot better than the stress of failing colonies, go for those!

Actually R J S,
you would be much better off if you
build all Wire cages. They are easier
to keep clean and you have better sight of your Rabbits
and their goings on. You could build a wooden frame structure
out of 2X4's or 2X4's make sure you have a sturdy Roof.
You could use Metal corrugated or whatever else is available
to you that will shed water and Snow.
Cages cane be double tiered hung from the rafters on lengths of Chain
with hooks allowing easy removal for either cleaning or repair.
This is just a suggestion as I feel that wooden cages are easily
destroyed by chewing rabbits. A wire cage will remain in service
for a much longer time.
Ottersatin. ldtimer:

yup. All wire hanging cages and rabbits can be pretty darn happy in them.

I keep my breeders separate but my grow outs are in a colony. Young rabbits get along better than hormonal teenaged or adult ones but if you have fast maturing stock or 'studly' young bucks you may need to pull the males out by 12 weeks or they can start damaging each other.

I also keep a friendly/tolerant old doe and neutered male in the colony to act as role models for the kits and so they dont fight amongst each other for dominance - the older ones are the bosses by seniority.

I think colonies can work but it can take a few generations and you must be very selective about breeding for co-operative rabbits and not the typical territorial bunny.

When I began my rabbit journey, I was convinced I was going to go colony-style. After more reading, I decided against it. For me, it was about having control over breeding. That was a big enough reason for me to say no.

RJ, you have a lot going on right now. Maybe sit down and make a list of what you want to accomplish with your rabbits, and then look at the list and be honest about whether the colony is giving you that. And go from there.

If you decide to go with cages, I agree on going with wire. I have both wooden hutches and wire cages, and the hutch will be only a quarantine cage soon. The wire cages are so much easier to clean, the buns get good air circulation, and they are more active having such an open view of their surroundings.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

Wire for me too, wood is just impossible to clean.

I had hanging cages originally. The issue with them there is unless I build a roof over them, the chickens jump on. And if I build a roof, I block off two of the 3 windows in the coop, that I'll need to be able to open in July.

We're holding off on doing this simply so we can poke holes in our design. First problem, as mentioned, is wood is difficult to clean. We're getting some metal (don't remember what it's called, but it's thin and comes in a 50' roll) at Farm and Fleet to staple to the walls so they can't pee on the exposed plywood. We're probably also going to get some that's narrower to wrap around the wood to prevent chewing. I honestly just prefer the look of a well-constructed wooden frame.

Drip pans are unfortunately expensive, so the boyfriend is thinking of building a front slanted roof that will empty into a gutter, which will in turn empty into a barrel.

Rethinking it, we could probably achieve the same thing individual with 24"x30"x24" hanging cages in a line instead of a wooden frame. Space them 8" apart, vertically, to give the same allotted space for the poop chute, and 4" apart horizontally to have space. This, however, still has the chicken problem, since they'll try to get purchase on the front edge of the cage.

Marinea, I do have a lot going on. When I started, I didn't. I still had questions, but things were under control. The colony has caused a whole lot of problems rather than the happy-fun-bunny-land solution it was supposed to be. My original turn-on to the whole meat rabbit idea were a few books on backyard homesteading - they seemed quite knowledgeable, but didn't give some basic details - and talking to other people who had done it. I should have ready Storey's guide before I even purchased rabbits, but then again I never came across it until I was looking for answers. I didn't even know Storey's guides to anything existed until I was talking to an employee at TSC about goats.

I raise in cages, and have never tried a colony. They seem to work best if you introduce young does (usually sisters) into them.

I didn't watch the video, but have gleaned from others that the hutches you are considering have wood components. I too would avoid that. Wood collects urine and feces, and in the case of disease outbreak will be very difficult to sanitize.

All wire cages that are suspended from above are by far the most sanitary and easiest way to keep rabbits. J-feeders mounted on the outside of the cages makes feeding a breeze. If you can install an automated water system, it is simpler still.

My rabbits seem very content in them. They have hanging chew toys, hanging buckets to lounge in, and toys as well.

Many people don't like the added work of scraping dropping boards in multiple tier setups, but I haven't found that to be too time consuming either. I scrape mine daily or every couple of days, and periodically scrub them with one of those "cobweb brushes" dipped in a bucket of soapy water and vinegar.

For some ideas to get you started on shelters for this type of system, look here:

gallery/album.php?album_id=8&sk=t&sd=d&st=0

RJSchaefer":e81h6uxp said:

I had hanging cages originally. The issue with them there is unless I build a roof over them, the chickens jump on. This, however, still has the chicken problem, since they'll try to get purchase on the front edge of the cage.

Click to expand...

Why not use 2" x 4" field fencing run from the face of the cage to the roof? I think the chickens would soon give up even jumping on the front of the cages if they never got any further.

One member had a problem with her chickens where they ate the kits from below the cages, so another layer of wire underneath the pens to prevent the chickens from reaching the bottom of the cages is a good idea.

This is similar to what we're considering. gallery/image_page.php?album_id=8&image_id=1450

It would be a wooden frame with the sides, top and bottom wire stapled. There would't be a back as that would run straight to the wall (either metal or siding covered). The door would be wood framed on hinges. Since the cages would be floor to ceiling, and require a step to get to the top (third) row of cages, I'm not sure how I would hang an all wire cage without incorporating a wooden support frame.

If the chickens continue to be a problem, the boyfriend is going to erect a quick wall between the two areas with a patio door.<br /><br />__________ Tue May 28, 2013 10:13 am __________<br /><br />

MamaSheepdog":gjae0fv5 said:

RJSchaefer":gjae0fv5 said:

I had hanging cages originally. The issue with them there is unless I build a roof over them, the chickens jump on. This, however, still has the chicken problem, since they'll try to get purchase on the front edge of the cage.

Click to expand...

Why not use 2" x 4" field fencing run from the face of the cage to the roof? I think the chickens would soon give up even jumping on the front of the cages if they never got any further.

Click to expand...

I would block the window. Under the windows is the only space - aside from the back wall, which is where the colony is right now - that can hold the width necessary for a row of cages.

Ouch. Sorry to hear the colony issues. I don't have much experienced advise as I have had mine in a colony setup for only 2 weeks. I have 2 colonies really. The main colony which are the breeding population and the up and comming bucks and does for back up. The main colony I have yet to see any aggressive behavior except for one doe very rarely pushing off another doe from a spot. But that's it. The submissive doe just moves on. I've had this guys in wire cages where they could see each other for over a year. They know each other. The day I put them all in the hutch I did so 1 hour apart to see who if anyone would be a problem. Each doe had a week old litter too. No issues. 3 does 1 buck.

The stby colony there is one buck that's constantly harassing the other buck. He even bit a hole through a younger sibling. He is going to camp as soon as time alows. 2 bucks 2 does in this stby setup.

As for the poop, I built a 2ft X 2ft sifter. Used it yesterday for the first time. Worked like a charm. I don't use bedding and do not have a concrete floor. Just good ole dirt with wire dug down 3 ft deep and tied to the wire sides.

I say take out the agressor and take it from there. Don't give up. Good luck.

The cages in the video look like an awful lot of work to me, unless, of course, u0u also have two barechested young men to do it.

I have both colonies and cages, I prefer the colonies by a mile. They are so much less work. Yes I have had problems with fighting in the past, but only in the one colony that has cages above, the bottom cages, which I don't use anymore, are only about 10 inches from the ground and occasionally the colony rabbits would let out their captive friends. That is the only time I had problems, and, lesson learned, I stopped using those bottom cages, left the doors open and now the colony rabbits love to hang out there.

That 4 hours a month that you can't spare? Works out to 8 minutes a day. How much time will you spend emptying poop trays?

I'm sorry you're considering giving up on colonies, but I guess it can't work for everyone.

Finding 4 hours to consistently do one thing, without room for anyone else to help, is pretty difficult. And that was the main problem with yesterday's cleaning. I can sneak away for 10 to 20 minutes here or there. I can't disappear for 4 hours to go clean up the rabbits' area.

We have wire cages but each rabbit can run through a pipe into an underground tub. That way we can keep them separate and control breeding. They like the security of the underground, helps with temperature control and keeps them safe from predators should one ever breech a cage. They can be down that pipe and safely underground in seconds flat It takes a bit of effort to build it, but once it is done the feeding and watering is easy. Breeding is easy, and the does raise babies really well in their little "caves". Clean up consists of using a rake or shop vac to get the droppings out from under the wire cage part and then some of the rabbits poo in their cave so we keep shavings in there and can shop vac those out as needed. Water system is a pvc pipe with nipples in each cage that feeds from a bucket - open bucket lid and fill it and you are done. I hated the little water bottles on each cage. Was such a chore, but this pipe thing is much easier. Don't get discouraged. You can find all kind of great ideas on forums like this and tailor it to suit what you have time and space for.

RJSchaefer":23t0rpt6 said:

Finding 4 hours to consistently do one thing, without room for anyone else to help, is pretty difficult. And that was the main problem with yesterday's cleaning. I can sneak away for 10 to 20 minutes here or there. I can't disappear for 4 hours to go clean up the rabbits' area.

Click to expand...

I have not got time to read all the replies, but you mentioned colonies as a more natural----I have a decent size farm and in the 50 plus years of being here I Have Never Seen 5, 10, 20, 50 etc wild Rabbits in a 100sqft area. Mater of fact its rare that I see 2 rabbits even close to each other. So in my opinion, its No where close to natural in most colony setups.

The youtube rabbit cage's you linked to is AGAIN going to be A LOT of Work keeping it clean, more than your colony for that size. If you do not clean a cage setup like that every couple days you better get you a gas mask. I will NEVER have a stacked cage setup again and I will NEVER have a slant drain board into a gutter setup again. All this is good if you are limited in space and got plenty of time, but if you can find ANY extra space go with a single row, ALL WIRE hanging cages which will make cleaning some easier. Good Luck!

I have hanging cages IN my chicken barn. I just put some plywood on top of the top cage and some hay. Yep chickens get up there but they don't usually like to roost up there as the barn rafters are -even higher!!- (read: much cooler in chicken world). Even inside the breeding coops they will roost on top of the rabbit cages but the plywood and hay keeps things clean. Yes I have to clean it off maybe once a month but takes me literally about five seconds and that's just in the cages where the hens like to roost up there.

And yes, wire is king. Wood = rotted wood, chewed wood, stained wood, bacteria laden wood. Use as little wood as you can.

I love the plastic ez mats I think they're called they are resting mats from woodyswabbits.com or most other rabbit supply places. They are easy to put in, it gets the rabbits off the wire and I fill the whole cage with them at kindling time to keep kits that hang on off the wire.

Oh and cages may seem expensive but if you keep your cages clean and even repaint them every year or so they last a long time and will serve you well! Building cages is no fun and they rarely turn out as nicely made as like qualitycage.com or even the cheaper ones from woody's

WallTenter":2cks5ee2 said:

I just put some plywood on top of the top cage and some hay. Yes I have to clean it off maybe once a month but takes me literally about five seconds and that's just in the cages where the hens like to roost up there.

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You stated that you Just put plywood on top of the Top Cages-------what do you do between the top and lower cages to keep the upper caged rabbits from peeing and pooping on the lower rabbits?

I've gotta say, the colony setup I had was nice and drove me absolutely INSANE. I hated it. Does are nasty vicious things and cleaning the pen was a pain. SO much nicer now that I have individual cages!!! So I feel ya, colonies are so frustrating!!!

Fire-Man":24ofsqzx said:

RJSchaefer":24ofsqzx said:

I have not got time to read all the replies, but you mentioned colonies as a more natural----I have a decent size farm and in the 50 plus years of being here I Have Never Seen 5, 10, 20, 50 etc wild Rabbits in a 100sqft area. Mater of fact its rare that I see 2 rabbits even close to each other. So in my opinion, its No where close to natural in most colony setups.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

It's not natural for North American rabbits, but warrens are a natural setup in European wild rabbits. Not that I'd do it, but colony setups are essentially that previous step in the evolutionary domestication ladder that led to our modern isolated cage setups.

I have to agree with Fireman,
that if you have the room a single tier of cages is
much easier and a little less time consuming to keep clean.
However, I do not find it very time consuming to empty
a few trays/dropping boards [[12] once or twice a week.
I empty them into a wheelbarrow for dumping.
I rake the floors and that is taken away. If you
can arrange it, it is possible to sell the manure to
local farmers and gardeners. All you need to do,
is let people know you have it and it is available.
Save your feed bags to sell the black gold!
Ottersatin. ldtimer: