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Hi GBov,Akane & others with cuy experience.

Discussion of all aspects of rabbits as meat animals. If this subject is offensive to you, please do not visit.
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Re: Hi GBov,Akane & others with cuy experience.

Post Number:#16  Unread postby Ghost » Fri Nov 03, 2017 1:45 pm


Yesterday, I was looking over another GP that was killed to feed a reptile. Feeling around I could tell, just as a remembered, there is a large abound of meat not only around the shoulders, but also a sizable amount on meat at the base of the neck near the shoulder.

GBov wrote:There is almost no mess with loppers, a bit of blood but never more than from a cut adn the head doesnt come off or anything icky like that. As skin is so tough it seldom gets much damage but the bones inside are cut through so a clean kill.


Ok, I was thinking you decapitated the GP, I misunderstood, hence I thought it would be messy. I have been thinking about your post and I will probably not use loppers for the dispatchment, but needle nose pliers

The guinea pigs that I will be dispatching for human consumption are colony raised GPs which are not used to being handled. When I grab them they struggle. If I hold them I while they do calm a bit. I will hold the animal in my hand and calm it, or hold the animal against the ground to calm it. I will then use needle nose pliers to grab a vertebra near the skull. From there, I will bend the neck back the wrong direction then give a pull. This should work with a guinea pig that is not used to being handled. I can deliver a quick humane death and all the damaged should be at one spot near the skull.
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Re: Hi GBov,Akane & others with cuy experience.

Post Number:#17  Unread postby GBov » Sat Nov 04, 2017 10:07 pm


My hands are nimble but not large or strong so I need at least one side of my dispatching tool to be sharp, pruners for small things like quail and lopers for larger things like turkeys and geese.

If you have strong hands I cant see why needle nosed pliers wouldn't work for you but have something as back up when you give them a try. I was glad I had back up once when my trial method went awry. :roll:

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Re: Hi GBov,Akane & others with cuy experience.

Post Number:#18  Unread postby Greencaller » Sat Feb 17, 2018 9:30 pm


Well I WAS thinking of skinning cuy if I ever get my hands on one, but after reading this incredibly informational post, I think I'd rather scald. (Hope they don't smell as bad as chickens, lol).

There's not much demand for guinea pig fur, so far as I know, so there's another notch against skinning for me.

So for those of you who keep herds, I have to ask - what are the biggest health concerns you guys deal with, besides weather challenges? My region tends to be hot and humid for summers and winters generally cold, and I have little experience with GPs.

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Re: Hi GBov,Akane & others with cuy experience.

Post Number:#19  Unread postby akane » Sun Feb 18, 2018 5:59 pm


Scalding a gp doesn't smell but having tried it without much experience prior to that and finding I had to scrape a lot personally I'd get a kitchen torch and burn it off quick and easy despite increased smell if I was doing a lot of them that way. It's actually the more standard way in their native areas and apparently crisping the skin with it prior to frying or roasting is quite desirable too. Reduces the greasiness and many compare it to pork rinds.

I have rarely had a sick guinea pig, their stocky bodies don't injure easily, and the only weather related was heat stroke when their shade blew off and their water fell over with miscommunication about who was supposed to check on them. Granted Iowa is not the hottest place in the world even if we do a pretty good job of getting there for short periods and I brought them inside at first snow but for the most part if you give them an adjustment period and shelter or cooling off options they don't suffer too many illnesses.

I never had parasites appear on/in the guinea pigs once established at my place despite keeping them in stalls that had horses over the winter and grazing alongside pastures but I did occasionally treat with ivermectin. I had one get a skin infection scratching at mites that lived in the hay and not on the guinea pig with a vet behind the times then that used penicillin. They are very antibiotic sensitive so if you decide to treat the safer options are harder to get than just running to the feed store. If you are bringing in a lot of guinea pigs it's often good to have a bottle of ivermectin on hand (injectable or pour on doesn't matter so long as you account for the concentration) and dose each new one topically behind the ears as a preventative because the mites that do live on guinea pigs are hard to detect even with proper skin scrapings and they are very tolerant of ivermectin. I have never heard of a bad reaction even with the unmeasured dosing many use.

Otherwise I've only bought some already suffering a respiratory infection and vit c deficiency. Diet is probably the other big issue besides weather as they need a vit c source at all times and you have to watch calcium and oxalic acid levels because they are prone to bladder stones. If you simply dose some vit c crystals when they can't have tons of fresh food and don't overdo the calcium rich sources they can be taken on and off greens of all kinds without much of the risk rabbits have. I just add them to the herd and start dumping garbage bags of greens in or move them from winter cages straight on to overgrown grass without issue.

Pregnancy complications are unavoidable for the most part. Having such developed young they have a higher risk of stuck pups, runts, and premature litters than rodents or rabbits giving birth to pinkies. It's a problem across the south american rodents. Activity is the best preventative and getting overweight will doom them. I find the shoulder blades the easiest place to tell if they actually are gaining fat pads or just stretching out from pregnancies. The number of individuals is more important than the space but of course you want enough space for them all. A couple in a huge pen will pick a single one to follow and spend most of their time lounging quietly while waiting for that one to move or scattered in a smaller cage holding down one spot all day. They have more health complications all around when they are not mobile. The constant interaction of several will cause them to keep interacting to keep their individual spots or following the whims of multiple top pigs to travel between locations more often in large pens.
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