luvmybunnys
Well-known member
I have watched this video several times. I think this is the easyest method of tanning hides. Here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NtlN1KqtoE Tell me what you think.
Easyest way to tan hides?
- Thread starter luvmybunnys
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I think the way he does it is good for certain pelts but for rabbit pelts they need to be treated more gently during the fleshing. I just fleshed 4 of mine and never once took a knife to them. I also wasn't a big fan the way he stretched his hides. Very ruff again when it comes to rabbit hides, both the wire he used and the plank of wood. I think the wood would have been ok if it didn't have so many rough edges on it. The edge of a table would work well though.
luvmybunnys
Well-known member
What do you flesh your hids with? How do you stretch them?
I don't use the alum method though that is what I see most people using. Mine is here http://rabbittalk.com/rabbit-tanning-t11969.html. EZ-tan for tanning process and after letting the hides soak in the oil I let them dry to a point then work them over the edge of a table for a while. The stretching part still gets me but practice makes perfect.
Rabbit fur will mat up if you wring, leave them un-split in the buckets and worst in the dryer to 'break' them.
You don't need to flesh rabbits that much, there are two sections over the shoulders that have a lot of flesh and some around the neck and hips. Only the shoulder stuff needs to be removed, rest wont effect it too much if at all.
I tried the mayo tan, I can't get them out of the crisp stage now...water doesn't seem to soften them any more and the mayo made them greasy, had to wash them real good, but it's hard not to mat them.
Just pull the hide off the critter, scrape off as much flesh you can and toss them into the alum/salt bath. Then wash them gently and start drying and stretching/breaking. Done.
You don't need to flesh rabbits that much, there are two sections over the shoulders that have a lot of flesh and some around the neck and hips. Only the shoulder stuff needs to be removed, rest wont effect it too much if at all.
I tried the mayo tan, I can't get them out of the crisp stage now...water doesn't seem to soften them any more and the mayo made them greasy, had to wash them real good, but it's hard not to mat them.
Just pull the hide off the critter, scrape off as much flesh you can and toss them into the alum/salt bath. Then wash them gently and start drying and stretching/breaking. Done.
On this latest batch that I am doing now, I found that near the...rump I think...either the rump or the neck...there is a spot that looks like two layers of skin. You can start to peel the skin off from there very easily and if you go slowly and methodically then you can actually "flesh" all the rabbit hide without tearing it or using any knives. The flesh comes off in one large piece.
And yes, CnB is right about the wringing of the hides. I had forgot about that plus if you wring them there is a good possibility of you ripping the hides. If I need to get the water out of the hides I just squeeze the water out.
And yes, CnB is right about the wringing of the hides. I had forgot about that plus if you wring them there is a good possibility of you ripping the hides. If I need to get the water out of the hides I just squeeze the water out.
luvmybunnys
Well-known member
ok thank yall very much! I havent started tanning yet I need to get a few more hides. What age do you let your rabbits get before you cull. Ive herd not to do fryer hides that they are to thin but to wait till they are 6 mo. What do yall think?
luvmybunnys
Well-known member
ok thanks!
DO NOT use a wood plank or wire to soften your rabbit hides. This is very dangerous and can easily cause the fur to slip out of the hide and even tear the hide. It is also completely unnecessary as sufficient force can be exerted simply by your hands and arms when stretching without risk of harm.
If you have a source for very fine sawdust or other particulate matter (I get mine free from Home Depot, just ask and they should give it to you no problem in a bag they provide)do not worry about the fur at all. Whether it gets greasy, matted, or just not very soft, if you rub in a large amount of sawdust and then flap and beat around the hide to get the sawdust out, the fur will become gorgeous. Do this at least 3 times, more never hurts. The sawdust will bind to any grease or oil in the hide and extract it when beaten out. It will also fluff up the fur to make it super soft.
If you have a source for very fine sawdust or other particulate matter (I get mine free from Home Depot, just ask and they should give it to you no problem in a bag they provide)do not worry about the fur at all. Whether it gets greasy, matted, or just not very soft, if you rub in a large amount of sawdust and then flap and beat around the hide to get the sawdust out, the fur will become gorgeous. Do this at least 3 times, more never hurts. The sawdust will bind to any grease or oil in the hide and extract it when beaten out. It will also fluff up the fur to make it super soft.
