Is there a benefit to having just one single rabbit or to having a bonded pair - as pets I mean ?
Better to have one single rabbit, or a bonded pair ?
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I prefer to see two together. They will groom each other and play... Keeps them from being bored when humans are busy. Two fixed males are great (added expense of vet visit, though). Two does are nice, but will get hormonal. It's not a problem, though. Two does will mount each other when they are determining dominance and when they are hormonal. I love having does together. When I keep rabbits to observe as future breeding does, I tend to keep two or three together. There is a very sweet bond.
Sometimes there are problems. Torn ears, ripped out intestines. (Someone described this occurring between does who were housed together for YEARS.)
Others say they have no problems at all, but I find the definition of "problems" to vary between individuals.
I've had trouble any and every time I've tried keeping two intact adult animals together.
Even little things to some like pulled hair from mounting, or small scratches or scabs is a bother to me. Abscesses from bit wounds would be a HUGE problem. I've seen some nasty ones an a male someone had kept with his brothers too long.
Someone on another forum thought it was cute her does pulled hair from other does for nest building? The only time it's happened here, the doe pulled some skin along with the hair off the tail of the other. It was scabbed for a long time, and never fully healed.
Spaying or neutering reduces those risks considerably, but there is always a chance adult rabbits simply will not want to share space.
I tend to think rabbits are as individual as people that way.
Others say they have no problems at all, but I find the definition of "problems" to vary between individuals.
I've had trouble any and every time I've tried keeping two intact adult animals together.
Even little things to some like pulled hair from mounting, or small scratches or scabs is a bother to me. Abscesses from bit wounds would be a HUGE problem. I've seen some nasty ones an a male someone had kept with his brothers too long.
Someone on another forum thought it was cute her does pulled hair from other does for nest building? The only time it's happened here, the doe pulled some skin along with the hair off the tail of the other. It was scabbed for a long time, and never fully healed.
Spaying or neutering reduces those risks considerably, but there is always a chance adult rabbits simply will not want to share space.
I tend to think rabbits are as individual as people that way.
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Those are great points, Zass.
As females here go, all has been well once they establish their dominance. They are in a huge space. And, to be fair, they usually go on to become woolers for sale or breeders, so this set-up is temporary... like 6 months. So, likely, a forever pairing of females as pets would be best altered, just as with males.
As females here go, all has been well once they establish their dominance. They are in a huge space. And, to be fair, they usually go on to become woolers for sale or breeders, so this set-up is temporary... like 6 months. So, likely, a forever pairing of females as pets would be best altered, just as with males.
Rabbits tend to be territorial and having two together can be tricky. Even raising two together from the same litter does not guarantee that they will get along well together when they mature.
Since this will be your first experience with rabbits, I would think a single rabbit might be best. It will bond to you and your daughter and look to its humans to provide petting/grooming etc. Some bunny toys help to prevent boredom.
If you do decide to go for a bonded pair, I strongly recommend a very large cage with "furniture" --a box and/or shelf so the rabbits can get away from each other when they feel the need for a bit of solitude.
Since this will be your first experience with rabbits, I would think a single rabbit might be best. It will bond to you and your daughter and look to its humans to provide petting/grooming etc. Some bunny toys help to prevent boredom.
If you do decide to go for a bonded pair, I strongly recommend a very large cage with "furniture" --a box and/or shelf so the rabbits can get away from each other when they feel the need for a bit of solitude.
I think, a spayed or neutered pair is ideal, but it takes a bit of learning to know when something is "off" between the rabbits.
Like Maggie J said,
Don't be afraid to allow other animals to be your rabbits companions. It doesn't have to be another rabbit, and really...I think rabbits may get along better with other species for some of the same reasons we prefer other types of animals as roommates instead of other humans..
Like Maggie J said,
Don't be afraid to allow other animals to be your rabbits companions. It doesn't have to be another rabbit, and really...I think rabbits may get along better with other species for some of the same reasons we prefer other types of animals as roommates instead of other humans..
it's hard to tell people whether to get one or two rabbits.
1. even if you get a bonded pair, bonds can and do break down regularly.
2. size of cage matters and NO ONE can tell you whether the size you have is sufficient. Some rabbits simply require more space. For instance Wafer needs a four by four cage to feel comfortable. A similar sized rabbit is happy in a 24 x 30 inch cage. Had a buck if I moved him out of a 24 x 24 cage would be all worried about everything, have another one that if I put him in a small cage gets very "busy" and will spray. Compound that space difference with another rabbit....
3. then you have to content with how close rabbits like to be with each other. even with my kits you can see that some like to bunny pile and others like to sit off to the side a bit.
4. male/female bonds TEND to work best especially if one (or both) are neutered.
5. female/female bonds tend to work longer together. BUT male/male bonds can work as well.
But ultimately what works best is
1. A LARGER then you expect cage size
2. mellow rabbits.
3. furniture that rabbits can hop up on, hide behind, snuggle into
4. stuff to do... places to dig, run around, chew up, and otherwise keep themselves busy
5. food given in more than one spot.
What YOU need to do
1. monitor for signs of stress - tuffs of fur, excessive mounting, one huddling in a corner
2. check them over regularly (at least once a week). You are looking for scratches on the back, thinness, bites, small injuries
3. feed and water regularly.. if measure feeding, feed at 1.5 times the normal "measured" amount.
1. even if you get a bonded pair, bonds can and do break down regularly.
2. size of cage matters and NO ONE can tell you whether the size you have is sufficient. Some rabbits simply require more space. For instance Wafer needs a four by four cage to feel comfortable. A similar sized rabbit is happy in a 24 x 30 inch cage. Had a buck if I moved him out of a 24 x 24 cage would be all worried about everything, have another one that if I put him in a small cage gets very "busy" and will spray. Compound that space difference with another rabbit....
3. then you have to content with how close rabbits like to be with each other. even with my kits you can see that some like to bunny pile and others like to sit off to the side a bit.
4. male/female bonds TEND to work best especially if one (or both) are neutered.
5. female/female bonds tend to work longer together. BUT male/male bonds can work as well.
But ultimately what works best is
1. A LARGER then you expect cage size
2. mellow rabbits.
3. furniture that rabbits can hop up on, hide behind, snuggle into
4. stuff to do... places to dig, run around, chew up, and otherwise keep themselves busy
5. food given in more than one spot.
What YOU need to do
1. monitor for signs of stress - tuffs of fur, excessive mounting, one huddling in a corner
2. check them over regularly (at least once a week). You are looking for scratches on the back, thinness, bites, small injuries
3. feed and water regularly.. if measure feeding, feed at 1.5 times the normal "measured" amount.
Thank you, ladysown - that is excellent information.
Rabbits are totally new to us - so we want all the info we can get BEFORE we get a rabbit (or two) !
Rabbits are totally new to us - so we want all the info we can get BEFORE we get a rabbit (or two) !
Susie570
Well-known member
HOWsMom":1set1qi8 said:
You are doing a great job of asking questions and learning! I wish all rabbit owners would make at least half the effort you are, before 'hopping' into rabbit ownership.
For me, a bonded pair is a great choice and I believe that no human can replace a rabbit companion. Even though I don`t have pets but breeding does, I keep them together when they are not in breeding like parts of winter or summer. But i always have sisters od mother/daughter, so I never gone through that bonding stuff.
Susie570
Well-known member
You just never know who will get along and, as others have said, relationships can turn sour even between 'bonded' rabbits. In my limited experience, when you have bonded rabbits, it's better to actually keep them in separate cages close to one another, then let them out for daily floor time together. This means that most of their time together is supervised, so if there are issues, you can intervene. I know that some people do keep bonded rabbits together, all the time, with no negative issues, but I like to be cautious.
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I'm wondering if I have a breed or lines that are just more adaptable. I can/do put rabbits together and even change who they are housed with at times, when the need arises. Once they go through the preliminary dominance dance, they settle in just fine every time. I think you just don't know who will be adaptable or what will cause conflict in the future when housing pets together. But, my experience has been good. Only once, when a doe got into another doe's space just after she had babies (door between the two wasn't latched), a fight ensued resulting in a torn ear. That's the worst that's happened and hormones were raging. Good luck to you, whatever you choose.
How do you get a pair to bond ?
ottersatin
Well-known member
Housing two rabbits together in the same cage/area
does not always work out as one believes it should/would/could.
It is at best a risk for one or both rabbits. i choose not to do it,
and house all my rabbits in separate cages. I'd rather not risk
any aspect of their health. Rabbits can and will sometimes fight to the death!
It is not something you would want to witness!
As always, JMPO.
Ottersatin.ldtimer:
does not always work out as one believes it should/would/could.
It is at best a risk for one or both rabbits. i choose not to do it,
and house all my rabbits in separate cages. I'd rather not risk
any aspect of their health. Rabbits can and will sometimes fight to the death!
It is not something you would want to witness!
As always, JMPO.
Ottersatin.
ldtimer:
Would side-by-side cages work - where they can see / smell / hear one another ?
And only being able to physically be together when they are out of the cages and supervised ?
We are not currently planning on a second bunny, but I'm curious how to do it if one of the boys decides that they want a rabbit like Bug4H.
And only being able to physically be together when they are out of the cages and supervised ?
We are not currently planning on a second bunny, but I'm curious how to do it if one of the boys decides that they want a rabbit like Bug4H.
HOWsMom":2uo0rvt5 said:
If a house rabbit sees another bunny, litter box habits tend to go strait out the window.
If they are always side by side, they should eventually sort out any possible territorial marking problem..but maybe you will always have more pee or bunny berries in places you don't want.
That issue is possible with a single bunny as well.
I'm not trying to discourage you. Having read many of your posts, I'd actually rather encourage you to experiment with as many bunnies as you like!!!
My current count is 48. But most are quite small...
it all depends on the bunnies. sometimes it works well, and other times there is an adjustment period....
Zass":2suwk0ko said:HOWsMom":2suwk0ko said:
If a house rabbit sees another bunny, litter box habits tend to go strait out the window.
If they are always side by side, they should eventually sort out any possible territorial marking problem..but maybe you will always have more pee or bunny berries in places you don't want.
That issue is possible with a single bunny as well.
I'm not trying to discourage you. Having read many of your posts, I'd actually rather encourage you to experiment with as many bunnies as you like!!!
I'm sure bunny berries cannot be any worse than an elderly cat with litter box problems (as in - urgency, she can't always get TO the box in time
Poor girl ), or degu droppings (basically over-sized mouse droppings), and occasional dog messes. Can they ?
Bunny berries are relatively clean and non-offensive IMO. I happily add them to potted plants and the gardens.
Guests to my home tend to have conflicting opinions however, and I find it in my best interest to sweep or clean the floor of Mucky's pen at least once a day, and often a second time if visitors are expected.
The pee is the worst part, since you really want to keep the rabbit out of it. Since I'm always tracking rabbits in and out of my home, Mucky rarely says in really good litter box mode for too long..
Guests to my home tend to have conflicting opinions however, and I find it in my best interest to sweep or clean the floor of Mucky's pen at least once a day, and often a second time if visitors are expected.
The pee is the worst part, since you really want to keep the rabbit out of it. Since I'm always tracking rabbits in and out of my home, Mucky rarely says in really good litter box mode for too long..
